Experience
in a Book
Engine
Maintenance (continued)
TAPPET NOISE: Roger
Bywater of AJ6 Engineering and formerly with Jaguar engine
development, says, "In fact a recognised source of tappet
noise on the V12 is excessive side clearance of the tappet
in the aluminium carrier allowing it to ërattle about'.
Remember the XK used cast iron tappet sleeves and they
expand and contract at the same rate as the tappet so the
clearance remained more or less constant. This does not
happen on the V12 and the minimum diametral clearance is set
by the need for a top size (high limit of tolerance band)
tappet to not jam in a bottom size carrier bore at minus 40
degrees in a Canadian Winter. The other extreme of a bottom
size tappet in a top size bore could well be quite sloppy
when fully warm and the way the cam moves it around can be
very critical. Cam profile, tappet clearance, side movement,
rotation and rock-over at peak lift, as well as valve
seating geometry, all come into what is actually quite a
complex phenomenon. For the record the range of diametral
tappet clearances involved run from about 0.0005" to about
0.002" at room temperature. I wonder how many engine
builders have even thought about measuring such things?"
TAPPET BLOCK
REMOVAL: Sections 12.13.29 and 12.13.30 of the Repair
Operation Manual describe how to remove the tappet blocks,
and both procedures end with "Lift off tappet blocks
carefully, retrieve tappets and valve adjusting pads." The
Haynes manual provides a similar procedure. Both make it
clear that the tappets must be reinstalled in the same
locations they came out of, but if you yank that tappet
block as described I dunno how you'll avoid having tappets
everywhere. If you have a decent magnet on hand, it might be
a better idea to use it to remove the tappets before
unbolting the tappet block from the head. If you don't have
a magnet, you might want to at least use a magic marker to
mark the tappets before disassembly.
Sidetrack: If you need some really good magnets, tear
apart a scrapped computer hard drive.
When reinstalling the tappet block, the manuals say you
should tighten the bolts and nuts in order, but don't
specify a torque. Later on, you'll be installing the bearing
caps on the camshaft, and there is a max torque value
specified there -- 9 lbf.ft. or 1,24 kgf.m. Since the nuts
are the same size and all actually hold the tappet block to
the head, it might make sense to tighten all of these
nuts to the same specified torque. However, the fact that
the cam bearing cap torque spec is a max rather than a
range, plus that it's rather low for a 5/16" nut, indicate
that this value is specified in order to prevent distortion
to the soft aluminum bearing caps and probably isn't valid
for the other tappet block fasteners. Hence, it may make
more sense to use torque values specified for other typical
5/16" UNF nuts -- typically 11-13 lbf.ft. or 1,52-1,80
kgf.m. Later, while torquing down the cam bearing caps, you
might wanna go back and retorque these other nuts and
screws.
The upper row of fasteners on the tappet block are
different, though. If the car is a pre-ë84, they are a
coarse thread rather than a fine thread, so the torque
values aren't necessarily equal. The objective should be to
achieve the same bolt tension, but the difference in threads
means it will take a different torque to achieve the same
tension. Judging from other similar applications, it appears
that coarse thread fasteners should be tightened to a
slightly higher torque than fine thread, so torquing these
to perhaps 12-15 lbf.ft would be in order.
They are also socket head cap screws, meaning that it
requires an Allen wrench to tighten or loosen them.
Loosening is no problem, but tightening to a specified
torque with an Allen wrench is tricky since you can't put
your torque wrench on it. There are a handful of options,
though. First and most properly, you can find a tool that
looks like a short hex key built into a socket so it can be
attached directly to a ratchet or torque wrench. These are
fairly common, but the size needed here -- 7/32" -- is not
quite so common. Sometimes you need to buy an entire set of
these tools to get the one you need, and you are hereby
advised that many such sets don't have the one you
need! Be sure to check before buying. Discount Auto Parts
sells a pack of four such tools on a card labelled "Brake
Caliper Hex Bit Set" by Performance Tool, and one of the
four is the 7/32" you need. These are really heavy-duty to
fit 3/8" drive ratchets (most of these type tools fit 1/4"
drive ratchets) and have an unconditional lifetime
warranty.
Another option is to check for bits for electric
screwdrivers. These bits are 1/4" hex shafts about 2" long
to fit in the chuck of an electric screwdriver or drill, and
there are all kinds of tips to drive almost anything. If you
can find a bit with a 7/32" hex tip on it, you can put it
into the head of the bolt and drive it with a torque wrench
connected to a 1/4" socket. Unfortunately, finding this
particular type bit may prove a little difficult.
A third possibility is to cut a piece off the end of your
7/32"Allen wrench, stick it in the bolt head, and drive it
with a torque wrench connected to a 7/32" socket. This makes
for a really flimsy assemblage of tools, but it should work
OK. Don't drop that little hex piece!
These cap screws don't have any lock washers under the
heads, since a lock washer wouldn't fit down in the hole.
This doesn't seem to pose a problem, however; there are no
reports of these bolts backing out.
Good luck torquing the bearing cap nuts to 9 lbf.ft. with
a 150 lbf.ft. torque wrench, which is the only thing
available at most auto parts stores. J. C. Whitney offers a
torque wrench with a 0-600 in.-lbs. (0-691 cm-kgs.) range,
catalog number 15xx01148.
TAPPET
BLOCK SEALING: There is no gasket
between the tappet block and the head. Although this joint
must be sealed to prevent oil leaks, perhaps Jaguar felt
that the camshaft support and the valve clearances would not
be secure enough with a gasket underneath the whole
assembly.
So, how do we seal it? The early (©1975) Repair
Operation Manual, sections 12.13.29 and 12.13.30, says
"Smear mating surfaces of tappet block and cylinder head
with Hylomar." Michael Neal says, "Hylomar is a sealant that
does not harden over time. It is still readily available and
is blue in color. It is commonly used to seal the liners
into the V12 motor and the cam towers to the heads. I've
stopped using it to seal the cam towers because a good blast
of carb cleaner or an aggressive steam cleaning can dislodge
it and cause an oil leak that leaks directly onto the
exhaust manifolds. Not only does an oil leak like this make
a mess but it also causes the exhaust manifold gaskets to
erode."
The Haynes manual merely says to use "jointing compound",
perhaps recognizing the shortcomings of Hylomar for this
application. According to Craig Sawyers, his repair manual
(Jaguar SIII Service Manual, published by Jaguar, AKM 9006
Ed 5, copyright Jaguar Cars Ltd 1988) "...says to use
Loctite 573. I used 574, which the Loctite website
(www.loctite.com) has as practically the same stuff. TWR
Jaguar in Oxford (ie Tom Walkinshaw's dealership, who
manufactured the XJ220. I believe they know a thing or two
about Jags) use 574."
A call to Loctite (1-888-LOCTITE) and a discussion with a
tech rep revealed the following: First off, Hylomar (which
is also made by Loctite, under license from Marston Bentley
Ltd.) is intended as a gasket dressing, not to be
used without a gasket at all, and is not recommended
for this application. As Sawyers says, either 573 or 574 is
suitable; the chief difference is in difficulty of
disassembly, since 574 will glue the parts together pretty
well while 573 is designed to be easier to get apart.
Unfortunately, neither 573 or 574 is commonly sold in
auto parts stores. Finding it will normally entail calling
Loctite at the above number and getting the name and number
of a local distributor; Loctite will not sell it direct.
Sawyers reports that you'll need about 50ml to do both
banks. 573 in a 50ml tube is Loctite part number 21455 and
574 in a 50ml tube is part number 24018. Neither of the
substances is cheap, but worse yet you may end up facing a
minimum order requirement of 10 tubes or some such, so you
might want to talk your local Jag club into placing an order
for the group.
573 is bright flourescent green and 574 is orange.
Think a little bit before applying this stuff. There is
no need to smear it all over everywhere, and in fact that
type of application is not recommended because it can result
in air bubbles. You also don't want to get any inside the
tappet guides. The instructions on the tube of 573 say to
apply a bead to one part only, which makes it easier to
apply than Hylomar; trying to "smear" it onto the head
itself would be tricky since all those studs are in the way.
Basically, you need to apply one continuous bead of sealant
completely around the edge of the tappet block, making sure
the bead is always positioned so it will contact a mating
surface on the head (some flat areas on the tappet block
correspond to gaping holes on the head).
Now, think a little more before applying this stuff. Note
that the bead should divert to just inside of each of
the 10 holes (one row of 6 plus the 4 surrounding the
sprocket) for the studs on which the nuts are located
outside the cam cover. Unfortunately, depending on
the casting tolerances of your particular tappet block, the
amount of surface area just inside the 6 holes may be tiny
indeed; you will need to exercise considerable care to make
sure that particular location seals properly when assembled.
Also note that the bead must be located outside of
the other 20 holes, otherwise oil might get under a nut, run
down a stud and leak out; a serious potential on the studs
that hold the cam bearing caps, since oil is being fed
between those parts.
If all that wasn't perfectly clear, I have provided an
illustration showing where that bead of sealant should be
located; see Figure
3.
If you have a pre-'84 car with 5/16" studs, the 4 studs
surrounding the cam sprocket appear to have been sealed with
cap nuts and copper washers. However, if the bead of sealant
is applied to the tappet block correctly inward of these
studs and the cam cover gasket does its job, there will be
nothing within these stud holes to leak. From '84 on, these
4 studs are metric and use normal nuts and spiral groove
washers with no attempt at sealing the studs, so they must
have figured out it wasn't necessary.
VALVE CLEARANCES:
There's good news and bad news. The bad news is that, in
order to adjust the valve clearances, you must tear a
considerable amount of hardware off the top of the engine.
Also, since adjustment is via shims, the measurements must
be made, the assembly torn apart and the shims removed and
replaced, and the gaps checked again after reassembly. The
shims themselves cost about $3 each. Having a dealer perform
this work reportedly costs over $600, and is probably a
reasonable charge considering the number of hours that will
be required. Before doing the work yourself, see the tip on
clearing off the top of the
engine. Also see the tip on valve
clearances.
The good news is that this adjustment almost never needs
to be done; the engine often can go the life of the car and
these gaps will still be within tolerances. In fact, if your
valves require adjusting, it is recommended that the
camshafts, tappet blocks, tappets, and valves and seats
themselves be checked for damage.
A minor tip: The valve adjusting pads come in sizes
varying in .001" increments and (the genuine Jaguar parts
anyway) indicated by a letter etched on one side of the pad.
As a favor to the next guy who'll be working on this engine,
install the pads with the letter facing outward (toward the
tappet). Years later, the letter will still be legible. If
installed with the letter facing the end of the valve, it
will be difficult or impossible to decipher the letter later
on.
CYLINDER HEAD
REMOVAL: First, a bit of clarification: It is possible
to remove each head with the camshaft and tappet block in
place, and this may make sense if the reason for disassembly
is farther down. This is the procedure outlined in both the
Repair Operation Manual and the Haynes manual. On the other
hand, if you plan to work on the tappets or valves anyway,
you might choose to remove the camshaft and tappet block
before removing the head. It makes the head lighter
for lifting, and it makes it safer to set down -- there
won't be any valves sticking out the bottom.
The following are a few comments/corrections to the
Repair Operation Manual, Sections 12.29.11 and 12.29.12,
along with corresponding sections of the Haynes manual. You
might want to scribble notes in the margins of your
books.
In Section 12.29.11, which is about pulling the B bank
head, step 19 deals with moving the transmission dipstick
tube outta the way. The dipstick for the BW tranny is on the
B side, but on the cars with the GM400 the dipstick is over
on the A side, so this step needs to be moved to Section
12.29.12. The same thing might be said of step 14 in Chapter
1, Section 19 of the Haynes manual -- that it should be
moved to Section 20 -- but if you have a later car, you
should probably be following the procedures outlined in
Chapter 13, Section 3 anyway.
In Section 12.29.12, which is about pulling the A bank
head, step 5 says to remove the auxiliary air valve. The
auxiliary air valve is on the B side, and doesn't need
removal for working on the A head only. The same correction
applies to Chapter 1, Section 20, step 5 in the Haynes
manual.
Steps 8 and 12 in section 12.29.11 and steps 10 and 14 in
section 12.29.12 instruct you to position the engine at TDC
on cylinder 1A (by using the cam aligning tool on the
notches in the camshafts) and then unbolting the sprockets
from the camshafts. You will find this job goes easier if
beforehand you rotate the crank one full revolution from
that position (TDC on cylinder 6A, notches on cams pointing
downward towards the head) and pull two bolts and one
tablock off of each sprocket. They're easier to get to when
pointing up than when pointing down. Step 7 of Section
12.13.01 and step 6 of Chapter 1, Section 10 of the Haynes
manual hint in this direction without making it as clear as
they might.
Both manuals talk about removing heat shields, but beyond
the big obvious one on each side don't really clarify what
they're talking about. In all probability they're referring
to the heat shield on the downpipe on the LH side as well as
the heat shields around the boots on the power steering
rack. The heat shields on the rack need to be removed in
order to deal with the downpipes.
Neither manual even mentions the front exhaust manifolds.
It's probably a matter of choice; they can either come off
with the head or separately. If left attached to the head,
they provide a nice handle for grabbing, but they do make
the assembly heavier to lift.
CYLINDER HEAD
REMOVAL -- ENGINE IN CAR: The conundrum facing anyone
pulling the heads with the engine in the car is the fact
that the rear exhaust manifold on each side is too close to
a section of the chassis. If the head is slid up the studs
with the rear manifold still bolted to it, it will hit the
chassis long before the head clears the studs. This problem
can be addressed in two ways: 1) the rear manifolds can be
removed from the head first; or 2) the motor mounts can be
disconnected and the engine moved around until the manifolds
clear the chassis as the head comes off. Sections 12.29.11
and 12.29.12 of the Repair Operation Manual use the first
option. Section 12.29.12 for the A bank head also describes
pulling the starter, which is probably entirely to gain
access to the lower nuts on the rear exhaust manifold on
that side.
Despite the ease of removing these manifolds indicated in
the manual, if you choose the option of removing the
manifolds first you'll run into the same problem -- the
chassis is too close. The manifold won't come over its own
studs without hitting the chassis first. Of course, sections
30.15.10 and 30.15.11 of the Repair Operation Manual just
give the step-by-step instructions as though you will have
no trouble. We won't even get into how much fun you'll have
getting a wrench on the nuts on the bottom side of the
manifolds.
This problem also has two possible solutions: A) move the
engine on its mounts again; or B) unscrew the studs so the
manifold can come out vertically without having to clear the
studs. Of course, unscrewing the nuts is hard enough,
unscrewing the studs is likely to be seriously difficult.
Here's an idea: remove all the nuts first, then back the
manifold up against the chassis so you have a gap between
the manifold and the head. Using a thin pair of pliers,
reach between the gap and unscrew the top three studs and
then the bottom three studs. This method has the advantage
that you will be gripping the studs near the middle and
therefore not boogering up the threads where they're
actually used. Note that two of the studs on the bottom of
each rear exhaust manifold cannot come out through the
manifold; they will either have to be removed with the
manifold or the manifold will have to be repositioned --
perhaps downward, perhaps tilted -- to get those studs out.
All the while, keep in mind that you will have to put this
manifold back on somehow.
Actually, leaving the manifolds on the heads and moving
the engine has its benefits. For one thing, you can leave
the starter alone, there's no reason to mess with it. This
author got his heads off by unbolting the motor mount on one
side, putting a jack under the front of the engine and
jacking, causing the engine to rise and tilt. After one head
came off, the engine was lowered, the mount reconnected, the
other mount unbolted, and the engine jacked back up so it
tilted the other way to remove the other head.
David Johnson says, "It was easier for me to remove both
motor mounts and lower engine to get enough clearance."
Johnson goes on to say that, even though he pulled the heads
with the manifolds still attached, he went the other way on
reassembly. "I did that because I couldn't get 2 nuts off
the bottom because some &^%%$ had galled up the threads
and the nut wouldn't come off, and the stud was trapped. Now
that I replaced the studs with new, and with the ever
present anti-seize it was much easier to put it on
after."
Whatever method is used to deal with the exhaust
manifolds, make sure to take enough notes to be able to
reinstall the heads and reassemble the car.
One other thing to note: you may find it helpful to
remove the rear pair of cam bearing cap studs to ease
clearing things getting the head in and out of the engine
compartment.
STUCK HEADS: When you
actually get to pulling the head off, if it's never been off
before you'll probably find it stuck. In general, being
stuck means one of two things: the head and block are glued
together at the gasket, or the studs are stuck in the holes.
The difference becomes evident when you actually get it
loose: if it was stuck at the gasket, then once it's broken
loose it slides easily off the rest of the way off the
studs. This is typically not the case with the V12
heads, which have metal-faced gaskets that don't stick much,
but the crud really builds up around the studs (several of
which are immersed in coolant) and makes it difficult to get
the head off every bit of the way. You might get it an inch
up and still be having difficulty moving it.
This author will express an opinion here: the stuff
plugging the openings around the studs is very likely the
Barr's Leaks that Jaguar recommends putting in the coolant.
Heads that have been off before and never exposed to Barr's
Leaks again typically come right off without any more effort
than lifting by hand. Of course, rust particles or other
deposits in the coolant might also contribute to the
jamming, but careful maintenance of the coolant seems to
avoid those problems.
Loren Lingren sends this tip: "The stuck head syndrome
seems to be caused by corrosion between the head studs
(usually only the long ones) and the head. With all the nuts
removed, try to wiggle the end of each stud by hand. The
stuck ones will not move. Begin soaking each stud with a
good penetrating oil. Get several 7/16 SAE nuts
(Don't use the head nuts unless you have extras) and an air
hammer with a tie rod tool attachment. The idea is to
vibrate the studs with the air hammer, protecting the
threads with the disposable nuts. Caution must be used
not to bend the studs or gouge the head surface.
Continue to apply penetrant as work is done. As the studs
loosen, the penetrant will disappear down between the head
and stud. I have used this procedure successfully for
several years in removing even the most stubborn heads, 6 or
12 cyl, without any expensive side effects."
Other substances suggested for loosening the crud in the
stud holes include oven cleaner, alloy wheel cleaner,
phosphoric acid, Nitromors, and Coca Cola. Dr. Karsten
Eller, chemist, says to forget about the oven cleaner: "Oven
cleaner is mainly caustic soda, i. e. NaOH. The sodium
hydroxide attacks the protective alumina coating on the
aluminium and also dissolves aluminium metal:
2 Al + 2 NaOH + 6 H2O = 2 Na[Al(OH)4] +
3 H2
"Use of oven cleaner is therefore strongly dissuaded
from."
Eller says acid will be fine, however. Mike Morrin says,
"Someone suggested using phosphoric acid (rust killer) as it
dissolves the rust without damaging the aluminium. He also
suggested moulding little dams in plasticine to hold the
stuff around the studs."
Regarding the use of Coke, Craig Sawyers says, "Now
here's an interesting connection. Coke contains phosphoric
acid (that is why it rots your teeth)."
John Warr says, "Nitromors is not actually acidic - It
contains dichloromethane, which will remove most hydrocarbon
based gunge. It plays havoc with the skin however, and the
vapour will go across most types of glove.
"I think alloy wheel cleaner will do the trick quite
well."
Of course, another fine idea would be to unscrew the
studs and take them out. Probably not even worth trying,
though; you can't get very good access to the studs with the
head in place, and they are likely to be trouble to remove
-- see the section on replacing head studs below.
Malcolm Scott suggests, "I bolted on to the exhaust studs
a heavy metal plate that had sufficient rise in it so that I
could use a hammer. This separated the head from the block
and loosened the head from all studs along the exhaust side.
However, two studs near the rear under the inlets were
clearly holding things up. On the HE heads, the inlet tract
protrudes over the smaller studs. I put the nuts back on the
two offending studs and put solid packing between the nut
and the bottom of the inlet. I then carefully wound the nuts
off and the heads pushed off easily. Because the studs had
grown into the head, they would not let go until the head
was about 0.5 inch off. This required loosening of the nuts
and adding solid packing (I used other nuts and
washers)."
Richard Chapman suggests that you remove the cam so that
all the valves are closed, then feed rope into the spark
plug holes on cylinders 1 and 6. Turn the crank over and let
the pistons push the head off. Might also work on cylinders
2 and 5.
John Napoli: "There is a technique that we used
successfully on much lesser cars. The trick is that you need
to try this before you dissasemble very much. The trick is
to loosen as many head nuts as you can access, and then run
the engine!! One good stab of the throttle is usually all it
takes. The head quickly 'pops' a bit. Shut it down and then
remove the heads normally. You only need to loosen the nuts
a couple of turns, and it often doesn't
matter if you can't get to 'em all. We used to do this on
engines where, for whatever reason, we anticipated problems
in getting the heads off."
If nothing else works, John Goodman describes a homemade
tool that will get the heads off: "1/2" steel plate
slightly wider and longer than the cyl head. Drill two rows
of holes down the centre to line up with the camshaft
bearing cap mounting holes, bolt plate onto camshaft carrier
using the existing bearing cap studs. Screw long bolts
through threaded holes in the outside edges of this plate
which line up with the cyl head retaining studs, the ends of
these long bolts had "cups" to locate them over the cyl head
studs. Next just torque down evenly with a few smacks from a
BRO hammer and the heads come off." If you have the tappet
block off, you might be able to use it as a template to mark
where to drill holes in the plate.
Alternatively, a smaller, more compact set of tools that
work essentially the same way as Goodman's massive plate can
be fabbed up quite easily. First, purchase a length of steel
bar 1/2" thick and 1" or 1-1/2" wide and cut two pieces
4-1/2" long from it. Drill two holes and drill and tap two
other holes in each piece as shown in
Figure
4. Into those tapped holes, thread 3/8"-16 bolts
that are at least 5 inches long and threaded all the way to
the head.
If you want, you can use 3/8" fine thread bolts and tap
the plate accordingly, or even 8mm metric stuff -- whatever
is easiest to find in your area. You can use threaded rod,
but you'll need to find a way to turn the threaded rod --
weld a nut onto it, bend it 90† at one end, whatever. If you
don't have a tap or don't want to bother, you can just drill
3/8" holes and put nuts on the back side of the plate, but
it'll make the tool a little clumsier to use.
The tappet block should be in place, and you'll need to
remove the bearing caps and the camshaft. If you've already
removed the tappet block, just slide it back on; without the
tappet block, it's too easy to bend the studs using this
tool. There are seven pairs of studs for cam bearing caps on
each bank; this tool can be used on the 2nd, 3rd, 5th, or
6th pair. Fit these two plates to the 2nd and 6th pairs and
put nuts on to hold them in place. You might need to put
some spacers under the nuts on the studs -- 3/8" nuts work
fine.
To begin with, install some generic nuts on the top of
each of the four head studs that will be involved, threading
them on only a couple turns. When the jacking screws are
inserted into the center of these nuts, the nuts will keep
the screws from walking off the end of the stud. However,
when the head has been lifted to the point where these nuts
keep it from coming any further off, you'll have to stop
everything and remove the nuts. Things may be moving well
enough by that point to continue without anything to hold
the jacking screws centered, but if not a few small pieces
of 7/16" ID tubing slid over the studs will help -- or maybe
some 1/2" nuts. Once the jacking screws enter the holes in
the head, there is no further need for such things, the head
itself will hold the jacking screws aligned.
It may be possible to get a mildly stuck head loose with
only one tool by fitting it to the 2nd pair of studs,
getting that end loose, then relocating it to the 6th pair
and getting that end loose. But since the trouble is likely
to be from junk packed around the studs and will be trouble
all the way up, it'll be a lot easier to make two of these
tools and jack both ends simultaneously.
When jacking, take care not to allow the head to tilt
inward or outward; tighten both jacking screws on each tool
evenly. If the head cocks, it just jams worse on the
studs.
Note that the weak point on these contraptions is
probably the cam bearing studs themselves. Don't go cranking
real hard; if the head just won't come loose, find a way to
apply more lift elsewhere -- don't just pull the studs out
of the top of the head. Since they're only attached to two
studs each, these little tools won't apply the lifting force
that Goodman's massive plate will, but it should get most
heads off. If more force is required, two more plates could
be fabbed and installed on the 3rd and 5th pairs of studs to
apply more oomph. You could even fab a fifth plate with no
1/8" offset between the pairs of holes to use on the 4th
(center) set of studs.
Matthias Fouquet-Lapar quotes the "XJ-S issue" (Volume 8
Number 3 January/February 1996) of Jaguar World, page 57
:
Cylinder heads can
be a nightmare to lift due to the inter-action of steel
studs and alloy heads. However, Classic Spares do market
a tool of their own design that makes light work of the
job. Be warned, you will need it.
There are also reports that John's Cars offers such a
tool.
Finally, note that if you purchase a "head set" -- a set
of gaskets intended to include everything you need when you
take the heads off -- the set will not include the locking
plates for the cam sprocket bolts, C33917. You will need
four new ones, so make sure to order them at the same
time.
SO YOU HAVE THE HEAD
OFF: Be sure and clean up the spark plug threads while
you have the head off. One excellent method is to get a
suitable wire brush shaped like a "bottle brush" and "screw"
the brush through the hole. When clean, the spark plugs
should spin all the way down by hand. You might also want to
address any spark plug threads that may be damaged; it's
easier to install an insert now than later on when the
engine is together.
If the block hasn't been turned upside down in the midst
of this job (!), there will be little puddles of coolant
surrounding the liners. Make sure you get this coolant out,
and then scrape the bottom of these pockets with something
pointy. You'll probably find a lot of junk, perhaps looking
like sand. It might actually be sand left over from the
casting process. David Johnson says, "I discovered that
there was no coolant flow around the last cylinder on my A
side! The last liner is so close to the jacket that
yuck had built up to the point that coolant would
have had a hell of a time trying to flow around it. I'd bet
only about 1/2 the liner had coolant touching it!" Whatever
you find, get it outta there. Small accumulations probably
don't hurt anything being there, but these pockets may serve
a useful purpose in catching new crud floating around in the
cooling circuit, and maybe once they're full stuff starts
plugging the radiator or something.
On the bottom of the heads where they come in contact
with the gasket, there are several openings for coolant to
flow from the block through holes in the gasket and into the
head. One row is round openings, the other row is oblong
holes. Several of these holes may be rimmed with casting
flashing; apparently the core meets the form right at the
hole, and there was little effort to clean away the flashing
at the factory. When the head is off, take a Dremel and
clear away this flashing to ensure the holes are fully open.
Might not be a big deal, but couldn't hurt.
With the Jaguar V12, you might be surprised at just how
much you can accomplish with the heads off without opening
the bottom end. The first possibility of note is that you
can seal the liners to the block. Use the liner retainers
(or some reasonable facsimiles) to hold 11 liners in place.
Turn the crank until the piston in the one unrestrained
cylinder is at the bottom of its stroke, and then continue
turning the crank while encouraging the liner to come up
with the piston. When the piston is at TDC but still at the
bottom of the liner, the ledge on the side of the liner that
sits on the block will be higher than the head surface. You
can then carefully clean the surface on the liner and the
block, apply new sealant, and slide the liner back into
place. David Johnson actually used this method to reseal a
liner that had accidentally come loose, and ended up
knocking a few more loose just to make sure they were all
properly sealed. In fact, it might not be a bad idea to turn
the crank a little with no retainers in place, just to see
if any liners are loose enough to move. Or, succumb to the
temptation to reseal them all whether they need it or
not.
Now we move on into theoretical, since as of this writing
the following ideas have not been tried and reported back
on; attempt at your own risk. The next suggestion is that
you may be able to replace the liners from above. This is a
bit harder than the resealing idea, since it requires taking
each liner completely out. The challenge is getting the
piston rings back into the liners when reassembling, since
even with the piston at TDC you're working in too tight a
place to use a ring compressor. However, the bottom end of
the liner seems to have a bit of a chamfer on it, so you may
actually be able to finger the rings into place one at a
time. Squeeze the top ring, slide the liner down on it, and
move on to the second ring. Or, you might be able to fashion
a ring compressor that will work in this space, perhaps from
a hose clamp.
If that idea works, the next idea should work too:
replacing the piston rings. If you have the liner out and
the piston is flopping around above the opening in the
block, it shouldn't be too difficult to carefully remove the
old rings and slip on some new ones.
One last idea: replacing the pistons themselves. If you
pull two adjacent liners at the same time and rotate the
crank until one piston is high and the other is low, perhaps
the C-clips can be removed and the pin slid out over top of
the adjacent piston.
CLEANING HEAD STUD
HOLES: Before reinstalling the head, it is of utmost
importance that the holes for the studs be thoroughly
cleaned. Any crud remaining in these holes may be kicked
loose when the head is slid down over the studs and it might
fall out the bottom and sit on top of the head gasket while
you're closing it up, and you'll have a bad seal.
For cleaning the stud holes, a suitable item would be a
wire brush shaped like a "bottle brush". If you're real
lucky, you might find one in an auto parts store, and if
you're even luckier it might be somewhere near the correct
size. Forget about luck, and visit any sporting goods store
or department and look at the tools available for cleaning
rifle and shotgun barrels. Outers and Hoppe's make 3-piece
rods and little brushes that screw onto the end for very
reasonable prices. Buy one shotgun-cleaning rod assembly and
then select brass wire brushes for 10, 12, 16, 20, 28, and
.410 gauge shotguns, and you'll be able to clean just about
any size hole you encounter. You can opt for the rifle and
pistol cleaning tools as well for cleaning smaller holes
yet, but note that the threads on the brush itself might be
different and therefore require either a different rod or an
adapter.
As opposed to the items found in an auto parts store with
handles that are merely a continuation of the twisted wires
that form the brush itself, the shotgun rod assembly is a
finely machined aluminum rod. Hence, it becomes quite
reasonable to chuck one section of the rod up in the
variable-speed drill and clean those stud holes up in a
hurry!
REPLACING HEAD STUDS:
Some of the head studs on the V12 are immersed in coolant.
If the coolant has not been maintained properly (changed on
schedule), some of these studs may get corroded. A small
amount of surface corrosion is no big deal, but large-scale
erosion can signficantly reduce the cross-sectional area of
the stud -- which is a formula for blown head gaskets.
Head studs can be thought of as springs. When you tighten
the nuts to the specified torque, you are stretching these
springs to a particular load value. Even though parts may
expand a little with changes in temperature, the studs are
designed to be long enough that this growth is minor
compared to the stretch of the studs so the compressive
force on the head is constant. But if the sides of the studs
start corroding away, this preload is reduced. And if the
engine is reassembled without replacing such corroded studs,
it may prove impossible to apply the specified torque; the
bolt may yield at the narrowed section first.
Peter Hyslop shares experience with these studs: "This
applies mainly to old V12 engines (ie >20 years old) with
a few miles on them and which have never been apart:
1) The studs can get stretched if over-torqued by some
fool trying to take a short-cut on a head gasket leak ...
this is an unusual degree of incompetence, so never use that
mechanic again (and if you did it yourself, give up, there's
no hope for you).
2) The studs immersed in the coolant can corrode and pit.
The others are usually fine.
3) The studs immersed in the coolant can become adherent
to the block and become brittle. Some of these studs stand a
reasonable chance of snapping off when you try to remove
them ... yes, you read it correctly, the stud will snap
before the aluminium block gives way.
The solution:
- Make sure that you really want to go this far before
you start, and are prepared to stick it out when the
going gets tough... get a consultation with someone who
knows what they are doing and can haul your arse out of
the fire (in my case Lou Fidanza at GTJ and Clive Freeman
at British Autosport).
- Leave the studs not in the coolant alone.
- Pull the studs in coolant only if corroded.
- Expect some of the corroded bolts to snap and land
you with a big machinists' bill.
- Replace the studs with something modern like GTJ's
moly steel ones.
How do I know?...I'm up to my arse in the alligators
right now with items two and three above (yup, snap, snap
snap)!"
Note that the 6-cylinder engine used in some XJ-S's has
an entirely different theory in head studs. They are
designed to be tightened until they yield, which provides a
very closely controlled amount of compression on the head
gasket -- but requires that the studs be replaced whenever
the head is pulled.
FIDDLING WITH THE
TIMING CHAIN: If, for some reason, your timing chain
isn't sitting on the sprocket on the holding bracket when
you put the head on, David Johnson says, "if you have
already installed cam, be sure that you take the moment and
hook the cam chain over the bracket meant to hang sprocket
on. I looked at it and told myself, "Why bother? I can
simply reach down there and pull it up." Ain't so. The
flange and bracket are just this much too close to squeeze
the chain through."
CYLINDER HEAD
NUTS/WASHERS: The thick washers under the 7/16" nuts are
quite suitable for the job, and the thin washers under the
3/8" nuts under the intake ports seem to work well enough.
The same thin washers used under the 3/8" nuts along the
exhaust manifold edge of the head don't seem to be cutting
the mustard, though. They are likely to be "dished" when
removed where the nut is depressing them down into the soft
aluminum of the head. To improve this situation, one of
three tactics is recommended: replace the washers with
thicker washers; replace the nuts with washer-face nuts that
will contact the original washer across most of its surface;
or -- as a minimum fix -- install two washers under each
nut. CarQuest auto parts (and undoubtedly some other better
auto parts shops, but notably not some of the
discount or bargain auto parts stores) offers a Dorman
"manifold stud washer" number 685-050 which is quite
suitable for this task. Note that these washers are not
found on a bubble card on a rack, but rather in a case of
heavy red and black metal drawers that form the Dorman
display -- often found behind the counter. Look in the
drawer labelled "manifold studs". This washer is about 1/8"
thick (like the washers under the 7/16" nuts), fits very
snugly around the 3/8" stud, and has a somewhat larger OD
than the flimsy original washer.
The nuts holding the heads to the block, as in other
engines, require careful torquing in progression to ensure
proper sealing of the head gasket. However, there are head
nuts on the Jaguar V12 that are tucked underneath ledges,
making it difficult or impossible to get a socket in place.
This application requires a tool called a crowfoot wrench.
This tool looks like a sawed-off open end wrench with a
square drive hole for attachment of a ratchet and extension.
Since they are useful tools anyway and come in handy on
other hard-to-reach places, it is recommended an entire SAE
set be purchased. David Johnson suggests that, if you can
find a set, buy closed-end crowfoot wrenches, since the
torque applied to the 3/8" head nuts threatens to spread the
9/16" open end crowfoot and round the corners of the
nut.
When using crowfoot wrenches in conjunction with a torque
wrench, the crowfoot should always be attached to form a 90ƒ
angle with the handle of the torque wrench. The effective
lever length of the torque wrench (distance from the handle
to the centerline of the bolt or nut being torqued) is not
changed. If the crowfoot is attached in line with the
handle, the lever length is altered, and the torque readings
will be inaccurate.
The purpose of torquing head nuts to a specified value is
to obtain a certain amount of tension on the studs
themselves. Whether or not the threads on the nuts are
lubricated makes a huge difference in how much
tension results from a given torque, as does whether or not
the contact between the nut and the steel washer it sits on
is lubricated. Unfortunately, the manuals are not as clear
as they might be on whether or not the specified torque is
intended to mean with or without lubrication. In its section
on General Fitting Instructions, the Jaguar Repair Operation
Manual does say "Always oil thread lightly before tightening
to ensure a free running thread, except in the case of
self-locking nuts." This makes sense, since tension obtained
from lubricated threads is more consistent than from
non-lubricated threads; if the threads aren't lubricated,
there's no telling how much tension you'll end up with.
There seems to be little or no official guidance for
lubricating the washer face, though.
This author recommends you lubricate the head stud
threads with anti-seize compound; this may not sound like
oiling lightly, but the amount of friction in the threads
when installing should be comparable. Plus, the anti-seize
compound will ensure the threads are not damaged when
removing the nuts next time.
This author also recommends you apply Hylomar or
comparable non-hardening sealant (or Loctite 573 -- see
notes on sealing the tappet block)
to the contact areas between the washer and the head and
between the nut and the washer on the 7/16" nuts
only. On ten of the fourteen 7/16" studs per head,
these contacts seal the coolant circuit; that's why these
nuts are cap nuts, since coolant can't leak through the
threads on a cap nut (and you thought Jaguar used cap nuts
to make it pretty!). While not intended as a lubricant, the
sealant will provide a fairly consistent amount of friction
between the nut and the washer, and therefore a consistent
application of tension to the stud.
On the 3/8 studs, apply anti-seize compound between the
washer and the nut. You can leave the contact surface
between the washer and the head dry, apply sealant, apply
anti-seize compound, whatever, it shouldn't make any
difference.
Needless to say, if any of the threads on studs or nuts
are boogered up enough that the nut won't spin on freely,
they must be cleaned up or replaced before torquing.
When torquing down the nuts, aim for the low end of the
spec range, and be alert for signs of stud yielding: the nut
continues to turn without the torque increasing any more. If
the specified torque is attained in a smooth and progressive
manner, there is nothing else to worry about; the head is on
and secure, and there is fully adequate tension on the studs
to make sure the head gasket will remain sealed. On the
other hand, if either the threads or the washer face is
assembled dry, you won't know how much of your tightening
torque was lost there, so you won't know just how much
tension actually got applied to the stud -- and therefore
you won't know how long your head gasket is going to
last.
SEALING THE DIPSTICK
TUBE: The dipstick tube just slides into a tube on the
crankcase and is held in place by a bracket bolted to the
top of the head. It's not sealed. Of course, it'd be a nice
idea to seal it; the fewer leaks, the better, and even if
the dipstick itself doesn't seal perfectly (although it just
might -- it is a decent design) it'd be a lot harder for oil
to find its way all the way to the top of the tube than to
leak out right there at the bottom.
Some ideas for sealing this thing: You might apply a
sealant to the end of the tube before sliding it back in.
Loctite 573 might be a good choice (see the section on
sealing the tappet block). Or, you
might fit a small O-ring around the tube before installing
it, and make sure that the bracket arrangement holds the
tube firmly so it applies a little compression onto the end
of the fitting on the crankcase. Of course, Viton is
preferred. Or, if you can get your hands in there, you could
slide a piece of fuel hose over the joint and clamp it on
both sides of the joint.
FREEZE PLUGS: Apparently a
US-only misnomer; English-speaking countries reportedly
properly call them "core plugs." Some US parts places call
them "expansion plugs". Alex Dorne clarifies, "I can tell
you that the freeze plugs are not meant to rescue the block
if the coolant freezes. Due to the casting process they were
necessary to make mantling of the block possible." Of
course, that doesn't mean they won't pop out when the
coolant freezes! However, in warmer climates the most common
failure is rust-through.
If you need to replace these plugs for whatever reason,
you will find several versions available, including simple
steel or brass cup-shaped plugs, and copper or rubber
assemblies with a bolt through the center for compressing
the plug to expand it into the opening. Dorne: "Most common
material seems to be steel for automotive use but when
working in the marine business I found out that copper is
used on "factory built" marine engines to prevent corrosion
problems when fresh water cooled.
Note that the original plugs are concave side out, but
replacements are installed the other way. "Installing the
plugs is a piece of cake (if the block is out of the
vehicle, of course). Place the plug in its seat, convex side
out, hold a ball ended hammer in the center of the plug,
give it a hit with a second hammer. This flattens the plug
and increases the diameter a little bit. I think it's a good
idea to use some non-hardening sealant on the seat before
placing the plug."
If the cupped plug is a little too tight to install, it
is a simple matter to make it a little smaller. Set the plug
in a large socket or box end wrench, put a steel ball (or
the head of a ballpien hammer) in the center and hit it with
a hammer.
Since the Jaguar V12 has an open-top deck design, there
is little reason for other casting openings and there are no
plugs on the side of the block. There is one plug on the
rear end of each bank, within the bellhousing. On the head,
there are three 7/8" plugs on the exhaust side, four 7/8"
plugs on the intake side (visible within the V), and one
1-3/8" plug at the back end.
VALVE REMOVAL: Jan
Wikström says, "The normal generic valve compressor
from K-mart will do fine; there's nothing special about the
V12 valves."
Apparently, K-mart is a quality tool source in Australia.
Here in the US, the vast majority of valve spring
compressors on the market are either cheap junk, designed
specifically to fit a Chevy and nothing else, or both.
Trying to use cheap junk on valve springs can be seriously
dangerous; if that thing snaps loose or breaks while holding
the springs fully compressed, it can fire keepers and
collars around the room like bullets.
Some of these pieces of junk are intended to be operated
from above only, which may be handy if you are trying to
replace seals without pulling the heads, but these tools try
to hook onto the coils directly; they compress part of the
spring rather than the whole length of the spring, and they
don't compress the inner spring at all -- you have to push
down on the tool to get the keepers in and out. And you must
hold the valve itself in place by other means, possibly
applying compressed air to a spark plug hole or even
inserting some rope and turning the engine around until the
piston pushes it against the valve head.
If you have the head off, Gerald Foster recommends a
valve spring compressor sold by Sears. It costs less than
$20, is a substantial tool that wraps around the head (like
a big C-clamp) to push on the spring and the valve head at
the same time, and is a Craftsman tool with a lifetime
warranty.
When using the C-clamp type compressor, you'll find it
helpful to tighten down on the spring a little bit and then
give the top of the spring a little rap with a plastic
hammer to pop the collar loose from the keepers. Then you
can proceed to compress the spring further.
VALVE TRIMMING: After
the valves and seats have been machined to renew the contact
surfaces, the valve will obviously sit lower in the head.
This closes up the valve clearances at the tappets. Jim
Cantrell points out: "Often, people at this point will then
cut the valve stem to get the additional clearance. This
will then cause the valve stem's life to be reduced since
the stems are hardened. This hardening only penetrates a few
thousandths of an inch and cutting it off exposes the softer
valve material." The proper solution to inadequate clearance
is to replace the valve, the seat, or both.
OIL PRESSURE: An oil-fed
sleeve bearing, such as used in the main and connecting rod
bearings of automobile engines, is an excellent device --
much more so than most people understand. When the parts are
rotating, the parts ride up on a film of oil, much like
skimboarders skim easily across very shallow water and seem
to coast forever. When operating properly, the metal parts
do not touch each other, and there is essentially zero wear.
The friction is entirely within the film of oil.
This system doesn't work at a standstill, however, the
same way the skimboarder will sink to the bottom when he
stops moving. The entire reason engine bearings have a soft,
replaceable surface is because they must ride on this
surface for a very brief time at startup, before oil is
pumped to the bearings and before the bearings establish a
film to ride on. The hard steel surface of the crankshaft
should slide on the soft bearing with very little wear on
either, but startups still account for the vast majority of
normal bearing wear.
The shearing action of the oil tends to heat it somewhat;
there is very little heat generated from shear, however, and
many cars get by without oil coolers. The main cause of
heating of the oil is by contact with hot parts, notably the
bottom surface of the pistons.
The pistons are likewise supposed to skim up and down the
cylinders on a similar film of oil. It doesn't work nearly
as well, though, since the piston stops at each end of its
travel for an instant, and because there is a less positive
flow of oil to this area.
This system also does not work very well for the contact
between the camshaft and the followers. This is because the
contact area is a very thin line rather than a broad area.
If one of the two parts were as soft as the crankshaft
bearings are, the force at the contact point would quickly
tear it up. In the Jaguar V12, these parts are immersed in
oil during operation. This ensures they are adequately
lubricated, even during startup since the oil stays there,
but it also generates more heat churning the oil.
There are two primary bearing failure modes in any engine
that result from lubrication problems. The first and most
easily understood is excessive wear and damage due to lack
of lubrication. The second is bearing overheating due to
insufficient cooling oil flow. These two are very different;
in the latter case, the bearing may have enough lubrication
to prevent wear, but gets hot enough to melt the soft
bearing material because the same oil is staying in there
and getting hotter and hotter, rather than cool oil flowing
through.
All engines tend to display a drop in oil pressure at
idle; the pump moves less oil when the engine is turning
slower, but the openings through which the oil flows are the
same size no matter what the engine speed. The Jaguar V12 is
no exception, and sometimes shows lower oil pressure when
hot and idling, especially when it has a few miles on it.
The V12, when running on all cylinders, can idle very
slowly, causing even lower pressure. This causes many XJ-S
owners to panic, and some to take poorly conceived
countermeasures.
There is no magic value for oil pressure. The only real
need for any pressure at all is to get oil to all points in
the engine, and this would only require a couple psi. Oil
pressure is monitored simply to insure there is oil flow,
which is essential.
If your car has always had low pressure at idle when hot,
and it gradually over the years gets a little lower, don't
worry about it. If it suddenly has much lower pressure than
it used to, you may have a damaged bearing that is allowing
oil to flow through too fast; the cause should be
investigated. If your car suddenly has no oil pressure at
all, stop immediately, do not drive it one more
minute until the problem is located and corrected. Many
motorists fail to understand the importance of this, so I
will emphasize: if the red light on the dash comes on
indicating that you have no oil pressure, it is not good
enough to "take the next exit." You should pull over
immediately, possibly even shutting the engine off
while still moving. A towing fee, and even an illegal
parking ticket, is a minor expense compared with an engine
replacement, which is the inevitable result of driving with
no oil pressure.
Do not add oil thickeners to your oil. While these may
increase the indicated oil pressure at idle when hot, they
do no real good, and can do considerable harm. In
particular, when cold the oil may be so thick that very
little flows and most of the output of the oil pump is
wastegated through the pressure relief valve. While there is
good pressure, there is little flow to the bearings, and
they may fail due to lack of cooling flow before the engine
and the oil warm up. This is also a good reason not to run
the engine too hard until it is fully warmed up.
OIL CHANGING: If you buy
an oil drain pan from the local auto parts store, slide it
under the Jag, and open the plug in the sump, you may be in
for a messy surprise. The Jag V12 will drain around 11 US
quarts of oil, and this is more than the capacity of most
conventional oil drain pans. Either be sure to get a really
big pan, or figure out how to drain the sump into two
pans.
When changing the oil on the XJ-S, it may be worth noting
that the oil cooler at the front of the car has drain plugs
on both ends, and openings in the bodywork to get to them.
If the oil is drained from the cooler as well as from the
sump, perhaps more crud will be removed from the engine.
OIL FILTER
REPLACEMENT: The oil filter on the Jaguar XJ-S mounts
nearly vertically, the way they all should be; the dirt
stays in the filter as it's being removed. Considering the
position, you can do your engine a favor by filling the new
filter with oil prior to installing it. When you start up,
you will get pressure that much sooner. You will find it
helpful to use a small screwdriver or some such to poke
through the smaller holes in the base of the filter and push
open the flap a little to provide a vent while trying to
pour oil in the center hole.
It has been noticed that some filters for the XJ-S are
different from others. Some are very large, extending almost
level with the bottom of the pan. Others are of conventional
size. Some have a series of flats around the bottom edge to
fit the socket-type filter wrench that goes on the end, and
some don't. Since you can't get to this filter from the
side, it is recommended you get a filter wrench that can be
used from the end, and make sure the filters you purchase
can be removed with your wrench. The socket-type filter
wrench works well and is cheap, but requires the series of
flats on the filter. There are also coil type and strap type
filter wrenches that will work on most any filter; note that
the coil type cannot be used to tighten the filter.
OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT
-- EARLY CANISTER TYPE: Until sometime in 1976, the XJ-S
came with a canister filter assembly. Not only does this
make it more difficult to change, but more care must be
taken to make sure everything is working properly. Mike
Morrin says, "The cartridge filter has a bypass valve which
sits inside the bottom of the cartridge, and seems to be
there to bypass the filter when it gets clogged. When I had
the old cartridge out and was cleaning the parts (such as
the bypass valve) which get re-used, I noticed that the
bypass valve was actually about half way open!! This is
presumably not good for filtration efficiency. On dismanting
the bypass valve, it became apparent that the alloy valve
body had been strained, probably by someone tightening up
the filter assembly with something not seated correctly. I
was able to straighten and reassemble the valve, and it
looks like it should work as good as new."
OIL CONTAMINATION:
Much of the following was pilfered from an article by Nigel
Calder in the March/April 1994 issue of Ocean Navigator
magazine. It was primarily about auxiliary engines for
sailboats, but the issues discussed here apply to any piston
engine.
Oil contamination is divided into two categories:
chemical and physical contamination.
Chemical contamination degrades the oil, causing a loss
of lubricating properties, and also may introduce substances
that attack engine parts. Heat and age can cause oil to
oxidize and thicken, encouraging the formation of sludges
and varnish. Water can be introduced even in a tight engine
by condensation within the crankcase, and causes
emulsification. If there happens to be any sulfur in the
fuel, some can find its way past the rings and combine with
water to form sulfuric acid which promptly attacks engine
parts. Unburned fuel coming past the rings also dilutes the
oil, lowering its viscosity.
Chemical contamination is combated by additives in the
oil. Eventually, however, the additives are consumed and
fail to counteract the contaminants. At this point, the oil
needs to be changed.
Physical contamination refers to metal particles and dirt
in the oil. The metal particles come from wear between
moving parts. The dirt comes through the intakes, and a
portion makes it past the rings. The problem is obvious in
that such particles will increase the wear on bearings and
the like.
It is tempting to take comfort that the oil filter is
preventing the particles from getting into the workings of
the engine. Unfortunately, it is not as effective as one
could hope. The typical paper-element oil filter will catch
particles down to about 30 or 40 microns, but damage is
caused by particles down to about 2.5 microns. These smaller
particles build up in the oil and pass right through the
filter, cycling through the engine again and again.
The full-flow filter cannot be made with a tighter mesh
because the restriction to oil flow would be too great. In
addition, if the filter gets clogged, either the element
breaks open (dumping all the dirt into the engine), or the
flow is inhibited. Usually a relief valve is provided to
allow oil to bypass a clogged filter, allowing crud of all
sizes to circulate through the engine.
There are two excellent ways to combat physical
contamination. The first is by installing a bypass filter. A
small percentage of the pressurized oil from the outlet of
the full-flow filter is diverted into a separate filter with
a tight mesh element to stop particles down to 2.5 microns,
and from there right back into the sump. An orifice is
provided to prevent an excessive amount of oil from taking
this route, which might starve the engine. If the filter
gets plugged, no problem -- the flow stops, and 100% of the
oil goes through the galley as before. But as long as a
small amount is going through the bypass filter, within only
a few minutes all of the engine oil is cycled through
it and the amount of suspended particles is greatly
reduced.
The other method is essentially the same, except that the
bypass filter is replaced by a centrifuge that causes the
particles to collect on the inside of a spinning cylinder.
These are typically only available for larger engines.
These solutions are even better than changing oil at
short intervals. Even with frequent oil changes, particles
appear in the oil immediately and continue to build up. The
bypass filter, however, continuously keeps such particles
from causing engine wear.
Note that a bypass filter does not address chemical
contamination. Such an installation would be effective at
reducing engine wear, but the oil needs to be changed at the
same intervals to prevent the additives from failing.
An outfit called TF Purifiner offers a package that
includes a bypass filter system along with a small heater
that boils off water, fuel, and coolant to minimize the
chemical contamination so the additives last longer.
Surfing the WWW, Mike Claus found that other products are
available from Baker Precision Bearing, Fram and Amsoil.
"Fram offers an automotive by-pass filter in its product
line that features a pleated-paper element and easy
"spin-on" replacement similar to original-equipment-type
units. Ask for the Fram "PB50" with mounting hardware.
"Amsoil's bypass unit is connected to the oil pressure
sending unit and returns oil to the pan, thus requiring some
mechanical ability or the services of your mechanic for the
initial installation. The company states that its bypass
unit, which employs a user replaceable, pressed-fiber
element, refilters all the oil in an engine every five
minutes, and keeps it analytically sparkling clean for the
(recommended maximum) element life of 25,000 miles! It even
extracts and contains any water that has (inevitably)
condensed into the oil...which if allowed to remain in
circulation will often result in the formation of corrosive
acids."
Of course, one might immediately ask: if a bypass filter
is such a good idea, why didn't such a quality automobile as
a Jaguar come with one from the factory? Well, you have to
consider the options the way the manufacturer does. The lack
of a bypass filter will not cause engine failure before some
extended mileage, especially if the owner has been paying
the dealer for oil changes on a regular basis -- and even if
the engine does fail due to dirty oil, the manufacturer is
not likely to incur any liability. The additional cost,
multiplying the cost per car times the thousands of cars
sold, is significant. And the additional risk of failure --
one of the oil lines to a bypass filter blowing open or some
such -- may be more than the company wants to accept. Just
having to tell prospective buyers that there are two
oil filters that need regular changing may be seen as a
marketing disaster, especially in this era of
drive-it-and-forget-it cars.
You, as the owner of the car, may think differently. You
have a significant investment in your car, the risk of a
blown high-pressure oil hose is no big deal to you (messy,
but not particularly expensive), and you are the guy who
will have to pay for a new engine when this one wears out.
Basically, if you are the type to own a Jaguar for the life
of the car, a bypass oil filtration system would be a wise
investment. Of course, if you plan on selling the car soon,
or plan to crash it rather than wear it out, it'd be a waste
of money.
PRE-OILING BEFORE
STARTUP: A lot of the wear on any engine occurs at
startup, when the engine must run for a few seconds before
oil pressure is established. Russ Lehman sends this tip:
"I've got a "Pre-Luber" on my van because it only gets
driven about once a week or so, and the pre-lube brings the
oil system up to pressure by pumping oil through the engine
before starting. These pumps are fairly common on marine
engines for the same reasons.
"The pump is fed from a line attached to the oil pan and
pumps into a tap where the oil pressure sender is attached.
The pump allows oil to pass through the normal routes for
normal engine operation, while not allowing oil to pass
backwards through the pump (I think it's a piston pump). The
motor is switched through the ignition key in the aux
position (controlled by MOSFETS), and will stop when the
engine ignition is switched on."
There are other systems, including a simple pressure
reservoir that holds pressurized oil after shutdown. During
startup, a valve is opened, pressurizing the system before
the starter is engaged.
Note that such systems may be of limited benefit. While
the bearings in the bottom end of the engine may experience
much less wear, it is not usually worn bottom-end bearings
that require an engine rebuild. More often, it's worn
pistons/rings/cylinders that eventually convince an owner
it's time for an overhaul, and a preoiler does little or
nothing to reduce piston/ring/cylinder wear.
OIL ADDITIVES: Don't use
any. The quintessential article on the subject is "Snake
Oil! Is That Additive Really A Negative?" by Fred Rau, ROAD
RIDER, August 1992, Pg 15. Transcripts of this article
appear in literally dozens of places on the WWW, any search
should find one. A couple such places include http://www.tfpurifiner.com/snakeoil.html
and http://www.euro.net/TDRS/MINIWEB/oil_additives.html
For those who feel compelled to spend more money on oil
than merely following the manufacturer's recommended change
intervals, the following options are suggested:
1. Install a bypass filter system -- see above.
2. Change oil more often. In fact, changing oil
ridiculously often using el cheapo oil is a very workable
plan, but some consider it environmentally unwise. It's
also a lot of work.
3. Use synthetic oil. Tests have indicated that
synthetic oil coming out after the recommended change
interval is often better than new regular oil.
4. Change the filter more often. They're cheap,
and indications are they get plugged and begin bypassing
long before the scheduled oil change interval.
On my car, I change the oil according to Jaguar's
recommended interval (6000 miles), use synthetic oil (Mobil
1, 15W-50), and change the filter every 3000 miles.
OIL PUMP CLEARANCES:
If you happen to have the Haynes manual, the clearances
specified for the oil pump don't seem to make sense. So, I
will include the values from the Jaguar repair manual
here:
Driven gear to housing: < 0.005"
(0,127mm)
Drive gear to crescent: < 0.006" (0,152mm)
End float - both gears: < 0.005" (0,127mm)
Note that, according to the manual, all measurements are
taken with the pump removed from the engine. Since the
crankshaft is therefore not holding the drive gear in
position, it is free to move as far away from the crescent
as the tightness of the gear teeth will permit. It appears a
rare case that it will meet the 0.006" limit; 0.040" is more
likely! Despite the clarity of their measurement procedure,
it is probable that the specified values represent
clearances in place, with the crank holding the drive gear
in its correct location.
Mike Morrin: "I cannot believe the figures in the Jaguar
manual. The endfloat on the gears in my pump was over
0.020". At the time I was rather alarmed, as the engine had
by all accounts only done 55,000 miles. I carefully
inspected the old parts for wear, and found that the factory
machining marks were still visible on the gears, and the
wear on the pump housing was negligible. This pump must have
left the factory with clearances way beyond the published
limits. So I put the old pump back and crossed my fingers.
The oil pressure seems OK (when measured with an accurate
gauge).
Of course, if endfloat is the only problem, some of us
have been known to skim a little metal off the mating
surface of the housing to bring it back down. With a little
care, it's even possible to perform this fix on aluminum
housings by laying a piece of sandpaper on a plate of glass
and sliding the housing back and forth on it.
OIL PUMP
REPLACEMENT: According to Thomas E. Alberts, the 1992
upgrade of the V12 included a new design oil pump -- and
that the old design oil pumps are no longer available. "The
original part number is C38453 or C40177. That part was
officially superseded by EBC3163 which is the pump for 1992
on. EBC3163 is supposed to fit the older engines but some
pieces are required to adapt it. This pump is at least twice
as expensive as the earlier version, and the adapter (they
call it a pump collar) is $45 plus some additional bolts are
required."
ENGINE OVERHAULS: If
you take your XJ-S to a disreputable dealer with major
engine problems, they may tell you that a fine machine like
this cannot be rebuilt, and try to charge you $10,000 to put
in a new engine. Of course, one of the features that make
this a fine engine is that it can be rebuilt. It is
not a disposable engine; all wear items can be replaced.
Even the cylinder liners can be easily replaced, so there is
no need for boring and honing or for oversize pistons. Of
course, if you've overheated the engine and warped the
block, or you've had a major engine fire, you will
definitely need a new motor.
There have been ads in Hemmings Motor News for an outfit
that will replace the engine for $4,000. The job of
replacing two pistons and liners cost the author less than
$1,100 for parts in 1989. Any mechanic brave or
knowledgeable enough to tackle the job can probably overhaul
the engine for $2,000 plus his labor, depending on the
damage involved.
PISTONS &
CYLINDERS: In general, you can buy pistons for the V12,
or you can buy cylinders with pistons. Generally, you
cannot buy cylinders alone. Make very sure you don't
need a cylinder before you buy a piston alone. You cannot
get pistons oversized by a few thousandths for reboring
cylinders; if the cylinder is worn or damaged, it must be
replaced.
Fortunately, the cast iron used in the cylinders is
apparently very hard and wear is usually insignificant in
engines with less than 150,000 miles, in which case the
pistons alone can be replaced. If rebuilding, the best
policy for saving money may be as follows: don't order parts
until the heads are off. Check for a "ring ridge", the step
created about 1/4" from the top of the cylinder by the wear
from the rings. If a ring ridge is detectable, order new
cylinders with pistons. If not, order pistons alone.
The pistons and liners are available in an "A" or "B"
size, which differ by a microscopic amount. The difference
is a result of tolerances in manufacturing, and neither is
really considered an oversize for the other. Each piston
must match the liner it's installed in. There is no
reason not to ensure that all cylinders within the same
engine match, although differences probably wouldn't be
noticeable.
The alloy piston in the V12 has a couple of steel inserts
cast into the inside of the skirt. These inserts are a
thermal expansion control device; they not only help control
how much the piston expands when hot, they also help prevent
it from ovalizing, which most pistons normally do due to the
geometry of the pin bosses. When the engine goes from cold
to hot, this piston design helps maintain a close tolerance
between the piston and the cylinder. This, in turn, reduces
ring leakage, piston/cylinder wear and noise. The fact is,
these items make forged aluminum pistons look like lawn
mower parts. The owner seeking to replace the pistons would
be hard pressed to find better ones than the originals.
PISTON &
CYLINDER CLEARANCES: According to Bob Tilley, "Under the
Group C TWR build instructions for the V12, the piston to
bore clearances for cylinders 1A through 5A and 1B through
5B is .0045-.005, whereas the clearance for piston to bore
in cylinders 6A and 6B is .0055-.006."
These absolute values may be of little use to the normal
V12 owner, since this is referring to racing engines where
the pistons and the liners are likely to be significantly
different than stock. The implications are fairly obvious,
however: the rearmost cylinders are more likely to develop
clearance problems due to poor cooling. There is no history
of problems in the street application, but the information
is included here for those who might make use of it. Perhaps
the anal-retentive might choose to measure the clearances in
their piston/liner sets and put the largest clearances at
the back.
TOTAL SEAL PISTON
RINGS: The use of aftermarket piston rings is a
modification, and therefore is discussed in Engine
Modifications. If the engine is apart for repairs
anyway, this is one modification well worth
consideration.
MAIN BEARING
REPLACEMENT: If you find yourself needing to replace the
main bearings without removing the crankshaft, the job can
be accomplished the same way as most cars: Roll the upper
bearing shell around and out. If it's difficult, insert a
cutoff head from a nail into one of the oil passages of the
crank and turn the crank to roll the bearing around.
However, when installing the new bearings, remember that the
Jaguar block is aluminum. It is recommended that the outer
leading edge of the bearing shells be smoothed slightly with
a file to prevent them digging into the aluminum when
installing.
ENGINE ASSEMBLY
LUBE: When an engine is first assembled is when much of
the wear occurs -- in the several seconds it takes before
oil pressure and flow to the bearings is established. To
counter this problem, there is a product called "Penrite
Camshaft & Engine Assembly Lube". This is made
specifically for use on all plain bearings (mains, big ends,
etc.) as well as on cams, when assembling a rebuilt engine.
It claims to withstand loadings "greater than 200000
p.s.i.", which is almost 100 tons per sq. inch. It is an
Australian product, but equivalents may be available in
other countries.
REAR OIL SEAL: At first,
it seems apparent that the upper half of the rear oil seal
cannot be replaced without removing the crank. However, Dick
Russ of Bethany, OK, reports that there is a tool called
"Sneaky-Pete", P/N 2700 by the Lisle Company in Clarinda,
IA, that will enable the seal to be replaced without
removing the crank. The tool costs only $6 or so and is
available at Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc. It consists of a
length of music wire and some tiny grippers that can be used
to bite into one end of the new seal and pull it into place
around the crank.
In the December 1995 issue of British Car, Russ
describes in detail how to replace this seal with the crank
in place. The procedure was developed by Phil Long, and not
only uses the Sneaky-Pete but also uses the seal from a
1968-78 Ford 460. The reasoning is apparently that the Ford
seal is longer than the Jaguar original. After using the
Sneaky-Pete to pull the new seal around the upper half of
the crank, the end that has been boogered up by the grippers
of the Sneaky-Pete can be simply cut off. If the Jaguar
original is used, the gripper must be carefully removed and
the seal backed into the recess, no easy task.
Russ also suggests that the cap be trial fit and torqued
down, and then removed and inspected to make sure none of
the seal is getting in between the joining faces of the cap
and block and holding them apart. Any fibers or edges of the
seal interfering with the fit can then simply be cut away
before fitting the cap up final.
Jaguar responded in a later issue to the above procedure,
claiming it was not only unacceptable but would invalidate
the warranty on the engine. They insist that the only
acceptable method of replacing this seal involves removing
the crank so that a special Jaguar tool may be used to
"size" the seal prior to assembly. The seal is not supposed
to actually touch the crank at all, but to reside very close
to it. The scroll carved into the crank then feeds inward,
preventing oil from going outward. Contact will result in
"burning", as described by many working in the area. Note
that Roger Bywater seems to feel that the big problem is not
burning of the seal itself, but burning of the rear main
bearing; the crank rubbing on the rope seal gets the metal
hot enough to damage the bearing.
Note that the original Jaguar seal is a waxy white rope,
while the Ford 460 seal appears to be impregnated with
graphite. Perhaps this helps avoid that burned look -- or
camouflages it.
I have to add some comments here. My impression is that
all of this is questionable. The scroll will do nothing when
the engine isn't running -- and when it is running, the PCV
system is supposed to provide a slight vacuum in the
crankcase to prevent leaks. If there is no actual contact
between the seal and the crank, it seems it would leak when
not running -- except that the oil level is probably some
considerable distance lower than this seal, so it is
not immersed. Just how much do you need to overfill the sump
or raise the front of the car to get a leak?
The rear journal includes a bearing followed by a slinger
to throw the oil off the crank where it can drain back into
the sump. Only oil that makes it past that point even gets
to the seal -- perhaps explaining the burned look it gets,
since it runs dry.
Perhaps any leakage doesn't involve liquid oil at all,
but rather the mist of oil and fumes that exists within the
crankcase during operation. If this is the case, people
experiencing leaks should look at the PCV system rather than
the seal; even burned, the seal should serve its apparent
purpose of minimizing the air leaking in at this point so as
to not overcome the PCV capacity.
Perhaps -- and this is really a stretch -- the leakage
doesn't occur when the engine is running or when it's not,
but only during a transition. Perhaps when shut off, some
oil drips down onto the crankshaft and along it past the
seal and out. Thus, only a small amount of oil would appear
after shutdown, and cars stored for extended periods would
not experience additional leaking from this seal. Perhaps,
also, the official seal installation would work here, since
a drop of oil running along the crank could be stopped by a
seal in close proximity, causing the drop to lodge in the
gap between the two. What would then keep the oil from going
outward rather than inward, I dunno.
One more concern regarding the rear oil seal
installation: when bolting up the rear bearing cap, think
about how the sealing of the crankcase is accomplished. The
oil seal theoretically forms a seal around the shaft, and
the injection of silicone sealant effectively seals along
the two sides of the bearing cap. However, the top surface
of the cap is sealed only by the metal-to-metal contact. It
is suggested that a thin line of sealant be applied to the
top of the bearing cap, starting at the oil seal and ending
at the silicone groove on each side, prior to assembly. See
Figure
5. Be sure to use some type of sealant that won't
obstruct the assembly of the cap to the block, such as
Loctite 518.
According to Phil Bates: "In 1989, starting with engine
7P.02073, Jaguar fitted a new one-piece rear main bearing
oil seal to replace the previous rope type." Unfortunately,
the 7P number refers to engines for the XJ12, but Chad
Bolles confirms that the XJ-S changed to the one-piece seal
around the same time: "No way to retrofit, already tried
that, block was recast. Crank was redesigned also. Seal is
about 5 3/8's OD and 4 7/16's ID. Main bearing the
same."
RUNNING WITHOUT AIR
FILTER HOUSINGS: Frank Perrick points out that if the
engine is to be started without the air filter housings
bolted on, the bolts themselves must be screwed in. The
bolts that hold the air filter back plate onto the butterfly
housings actually go all the way through the housings and
are threaded into the intake manifold. If these bolts are
left out, the holes provide a major butterfly bypass and the
engine will overrev.
AIR INJECTION PUMP:
Roger Myers reports that the air pump on the XJ-S can be
replaced with a GM unit. Take the old one to your local
parts shop and ask them to give you one just like it.
John Napoli adds, "I have had the opportunity to see the
air rails from Jag engines -- both 6 and 12 cylinder
versions. Very often, the cars have brand new air pumps and
diverter valves and hoses -- so someone spent a good penny
replacing all that stuff. And on every one, the air rail
tubes (where they stick into the head) were completely coked
up. You would need some really ambitious air to get through
all this!!
"Moral of the story: if you are going to maintain your
air pump system, don't forget to do the obvious and simple
and remove and clean out the air rail tubes. Otherwise you
are just wasting time and money." Note that there's nothing
complicated about those passageways, they are merely open
lines into the exhaust ports. You can clear them out with a
drill.
Also, please note comments in the section Engine
Modifications.
AIR INJECTION PUMP
WASTE OUTLET: The air pump only delivers air to the
exhaust system during warmup; once the engine is warm, it
wastes the air into the right side air filter housing.
Michael Aiken points out that it is plumbed "to the engine
side of the filter. Unfiltered air is being pumped
directly into the engine - and this is very dirty air coming
out of this pump! I would recommend that the wastegate tube
be removed from the air cleaner housing and the opening in
the housing blocked." Aiken adds that the filth coming
through this line was actually visible on the inside surface
of his air filter itself. He also points out that, in
addition to the dust that the air injection pump may be
pumping into the intakes, the pump itself is junk and may
start pumping bits of itself into the intakes at any time --
rust particles, bearing bits, whatever.
It's possible that the waste line was routed to the
filter housing to reduce noise, but if noise is a concern it
should nevertheless be rerouted to the outside of the
filter, not the inside.
AIR INJECTION NON-RETURN
VALVE: Bruce Battles says that the Jaguar non-return
valve "without the T-splitter is a GM part (check valve)
Part # STI AV7. Just keep your T-splitter and install on the
new GM check valve."
V-BELTS: Most V-belts are
available in either solid or notched varieties. There is no
appreciable difference in strength, since the strength of
all V-belts comes from a layer of cord unaffected by
notches. The cord is in the outside edge, making that part
stiff to force the softer, inner portion of the belt into
the groove in the pulley.
The notches in the inner surface help the V-belt flex,
and are beneficial when the belt must turn around a small
pulley. It is therefore recommended that a notched V-belt
always be used for the alternator belt on the XJ-S.
The notches in a belt can cause noise. For this reason,
most V-belts use a randomly-spaced series of notches rather
than evenly-spaced, because a random spacing eliminates
whine. For the same reason, cooling fans have unequally
spaced blades and tires have unequally spaced tread
patterns.
POWER STEERING
PUMP INSTALLATION: Jim Isbell points out that the bolt
holding the belt tensioner to the power steering pump should
be installed from the rear to the front. "The bolt, if put
in from the back with the nut end toward the radiator can be
removed with the pulley in place. If put in backwards it
cannot be removed with the pulley in place."
FAN BELT IDLER
PULLEY INSTALLATION: Jim Isbell says: "The bolt that
connects the adjuster screw to the idler pulley must be put
in from the back with the nut toward the radiator. If this
is put in backwards the adjustment range of the idler is
greatly reduced."
IF ALL ELSE FAILS: Most
Jaguar owners feel that if you want a Chevy, you should buy
a Chevy. But there are those who think otherwise, and for
them there are several outfits that offer kits for replacing
the Jaguar V12 with a Chevy V-8. John's Cars offers two kits
for the XJ-S, one for a small block Chevy and one for a big
block. Another outfit to check with is Jaguars That Run.
The 90ƒ V-8 is an excellent engine layout; it has even
firing order, and primary and secondary imbalances are 100%
correctable by simply casting counterweights into the
crankshaft. The problems with the Chevy "lump" are not that
it's a V-8, or even that it's cast iron; it's problems are:
A) It has pushrod-operated valves, which require severe
compromises in valve operation, which prevents it from
producing much power for its size -- a problem GM has always
addressed by increasing its size; and B) It employs a timing
chain with no tensioner, which results in an engine that
runs rougher and rougher as it wears. Both of these problems
were addressed and corrected by all major European
automakers in the 1960's, and by all Japanese automakers in
the 1970's. Both Ford and Chevy finally introduced V-8
engines with overhead cams and intelligent camshaft drive
systems in the 1990's, apparently in response to competition
from Lexus and Infiniti.
Sir William Lyons, founder of Jaguar, apparently didn't
like V-8's. When Jaguar bought out Daimler in 1960, Daimler
had two V-8 engines in production, and Lyons scrapped one of
these immediately and the other a few years later. When it
became apparent that the excellent Jaguar inline 6 would no
longer cut the mustard on the racing circuit, Lyons
responded with the V12.
If you must shoehorn a pushrod V-8 into your Jaguar, do
yourself a favor and purchase some cast aluminum valve
covers. They will absorb a lot of the noise of the valve
train. A cast aluminum timing chain cover will also help
reduce racket, and replacing the timing chain with something
with less slop, like a set of gears, will make the engine
run smoother.
On to the
Ignition
System
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