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The Jaguar E-type

The Jaguar E-type.
V1.0 (Sep 96)
Lawrence Buja
(southern@ncar.ucar.edu)


Contents:

  1. Overview of the E-type.
  2. Prelude to the E-Type: The Jaguar C and D-Types
  3. Three Generations of E-types:
  4. The E-type as a daily driver
  5. Things to consider when buying an E-type
  6. Restoring an E-type
  7. E-Type Stories from the Jag-lovers group

1. Overview of the E-type.


The Jaguar E-type needs no introduction. Wickedly fast, seductively beautiful, and technically advanced for it's time, the E-type is acknowledged as _the_ Great British sports car. Born out of Jaguar's highly successful factory racing campaigns of the 1950's, the E-Type was an instant classic and quickly gained a reputation of being a blindingly fast sports car wrapped in a deliciously sexy body. With a 3.8 liter double overhead cam race engine matched to a very advanced lightweight monocoque and tube-frame body and a sophisticated independent rear suspension, the E-type rarely fails to be a thrill to drive.

    "But then, we know all that. If we won the lottery, we'd buy a pre-1967 XK-E roadster, bright red, bright enough to make Alfa owners go home and drown their sorrows in denominazione di origine controllata e garantita as the sound of six thumping cylinders roared across the echo chambers of the Santa Cruz mountains, shaking the acorns from the quercus agrifolia and the needles from the sequoia sempervirens, rustling the dew from innumerable lilies as the cams opened and closed in their aluminum womb beneath the long speedbumped bonnet straddled by ventilating louvers. The slim red taillights would wink late braking under the elms, the wishbones would play their camber game and keep the tires planted as torque pushed the slip angles to new and exciting heights. We'd have a car in which we could outdrag a jacked-up Camaro, out-corner a blacked-out 911, and spit pieces of halfshaft up through the floor of the passenger compartment, all in the same historic day."
    (Scott Fisher)
In it's various guises and options, an XKE can be either a full bore race car, a smooth grand touring automobile, a concours trailer queen, a daily driver, a sporty convertible or a placid family car. In any case, it is a beautiful example of automotive design and engineering.

    "It's a dream of a lifetime. I drove a 71 XKE V12 from 1981 to 1985 everyday. Those were the best years of my life. I loved going to work. We even took the car on vacation on year. Not much room for luggage, we didn't go far or stay to long. Driving the car everyday is the best thing for it. It didn't leak, it didn't smell and it stayed in tune longer. As a matter of fact I decided to buy a XJS V12 so that I can recapture that memorable time in my life"
    Jack Bednarski (jackb@epix.net)
The E-type design evolved through three generations during the course of it's production from 1961 to 1975. Conveniently termed Series I, II and III, each of these variants has it's own strengths and weaknesses. Owning and driving an E-type will test your patience and your pocketbook, but the rewards are tremendous.

    "I for one purchased a '66 E Type Coupe in '72 for $2,000US, I still own the car and for the first 11 years of ownership drove it every day rain or shine (California Style) as well as on 800+ mile trips, the car NEVER let me down in all the 135,000 miles of driving. The pride of ownership and the continual thumbs up from admirers and on lookers far outweighs all the minor inconveniences that you encounter with the car.I have owned over 50 different cars during my life and I have to say that the E Type has been the most enjoyable, comfortable and fun ride I have encountered."
    Ed (edf@studio.sgi.com)

2. Prelude to the E-Type: The Jaguar C and D-Types


The E-type ancestry represents the convergence of three highly successful development lines. On one side, the XK120, XK140 and XK150 sports cars had been delivering cheap, high performance driving to the common man for the previous decade. On the other, the Jaguar C and D-type's were world class race cars competing and winning at the highest levels. Finally, the success of the Jaguar MkII saloons provided Jaguar with the financial stability to make a gamble and launch such a risky project. It is testimony to the brilliant marketeering of William Lyons that he was able to combine the best of the D-types racing design and performance with the XK's simplicity and accessibility to successfully mass-market a high performance sports car of the caliber of the E-type.

Back in 1950, Jaguar engineers combined the drivetrain from an XK120 with a space frame chassis and a beautiful aluminium aircraft inspired aerodynamic body. With some aggressive tuning, the resulting car won the 24 hour of Le Man race in it's first year, linking Jaguar with the legendary Bently racecars of the decades before. Within the next year, the XK120C had been fitted with the first disk brakes and the C-type was the dominant car on the race circuits of 1953. However, the sun was soon to set on the C-type as the more advanced Ferrari and Mercedes 300 SLs appeared on the scene.

1954 saw the arrival of the D-type, Jaguar's first all-out racecar. The D-type chassis was a lightweight alloy monocoque with a low profile dry-sump high-compression XK engine. It was again victorious at Le Mans in 1955, after which the factory Jaguar race efforts were scaled back and finally closed down after the 1956 season. However, private race teams such as the Scottish Ecurie Ecosse, continued to successfully campaign the D-type for several more years. The peak of the D-type's career came in 1957 when it took the first four places at Le Mans. During this brief beautiful period, the Jaguar D-type was the dominant sports car for it's time.

3. Three Generations of E-types:


The E-type design was a direct follow-on to the D-type, with one very important advance. While the E-type shared the D-type monocoque tub/space-frame front chassis design, the E-type introduced the fabulous Jaguar Independent Rear Suspension (IRS). With inboard brakes to reduce the unsprung weight and the advanced IRS design, the E-type handling was clearly superior to it's D-type and XK ancestors.

From the instant of it's unveiling, the E-type was a sensation. The specially tuned press cars could attain true 150mph speeds while the sensuous curves and long reach were loved by the sylists. The E-type design evolved through three basic variations, gaining weight and niceties while losing performance and the purity of it's original style.

Thus, given it's background, when you want to emphasize the racing heritage of your XKE, call it an E-type and when you wish to connect it to the famous XK120, XK140 and XK150 sports cars, refer to it as an XKE.

SERIES I (1961-1967)

The first generation XKE was the simplest, purest and most desirable of the three designs. Immediately identified by it's covered headlights, small front intake, triple windshield wipers and slim tail lights just above the two piece rear bumper, the Series I E-type was initially delivered in either SWB coupe or convertible form.

The powertrain was carried over from the XK-150 line: the superb 3.8L Jaguar XK overhead cam straight six engine matched with a non-syncro Moss four-speed transmission. With triple 2" SU carburators, this 265 hp E-type was capable of 6.9 sec 0-60mph times with top speeds near 150mph.

In late-1964, a number of improvements were made to the XKE. The more powerful 4.2L version of the XK engine replaced the 3.8L gaining low end torque at the expense of high end revs. With the 4.2L engine came the much improved sycromesh transmission and a number of other minor improvements.

1966 saw the release of the long wheel base 2+2 fixed head XKE. Jaguar fitted BW8 automatic transmissions to the 2+2 coupes, taking the first steps away from a true sports car and to a GT car.

SERIES I.5 AND II (1968-1969)

The second generation E-type saw a number of changes in response to US safety and emissions regulations. A larger air intake, windshield raked back, headlamps were moved forward and uncovered and larger tail lights underneath the rear bumper, two vs three wipers. and a number of minor changes Thru 1969, the three E-type bodystyles, drophead, coupe and 2+2 coupe, continued to be offered.

The series II was probably the most unloved of the three generations, lacking the fluid grace and style of the original SI body and the exotic V12 engine of the SIII.

SERIES III (1970-1975)


The final edition of the E-type family was the most sophisticated. With it came the legendary 272hp Jaguar V12 and a level of interior trim unseen before. The series III XKE's are immediately recognizable by the chrome grills and flared fenders. Available in V12 long-wheel base only, the SIII came in a choice of two body styles: roadster or 2+2 coupe.

    "Driving up the coast, loving life is a great plan. Exactly what it excels at. On the other hand, the engine is low compression and the head is a pitiful design. While it generally will be much more lively than an XJ-S due to a large weight difference and a 3.54 rear instead of the 2.88 in the XJ-S, don't overlook the fact that contemporary road tests showed the SWB XJ-6 and XJ-6C's performed and handled as well as the E-Type V-12. Don't embarrass yourself by dueling with Series 1 or 1 1/2 E-Types or any halfway sporty modern car. Either will eat your lunch. Drive carefully, it has tall, skinny, non-stick tires by today's standards. Mounting them on very flexible wire wheels makes it worse (but pretty!)"
    Mike Cogswell (M.Cogswell@zds.com)

Performance vs Other British Sports Cars


Make     Model        Speed   0-60   30-70   50-70   MPG
AC       COBRA 289    138     5.5     5.1     4.1    15.1
TVR      350i         136     6.6     7.8     8.8    19.6
Lotus    Elan Sprint  121     6.7     7.5     7.0    22.2
Jaguar   E-Type 3.8   150     6.9     5.7     5.4    17.9
Lotus    7 Twin Cam   103     7.1     7.2     8.1    19.2
Triumph  TR8          130     7.1     6.2     8.0    20.0 
TVR      3000M        121     7.7     8.1     6.7    21.4
Triumph  TR6          119     8.2     8.0     10.5   19.8
Jaguar   MK2 3.8      125     8.5     8.5     8.6    15.7
AC       ACE          117     9.1     8.9     8.5    21.6
A-Healey 3000Mk11     121     9.8     9.4     7.9    20.3
Jaguar   XK120        120     9.9     10.4    7.9    16.2
Daimler  Dart SP-250  122     10.2            5.7    29.1
A-Healey 100/4        111     10.3    10.1    7.6    24.5
Austin   Cooper S     96      11.2    12.3    9.4    28.5
Triumph  TR3          102     12.5    12.9    12.5   24.9
MG       B            102     13.0    14.0    13.5   23.7
lotus    Cortina      107     13.6    14.4    8.9    20.8
Morris   Minor        73      24.8    N/A     N/A    31.2

4. The E-type as a daily driver


With the newest models now over 20 years old, these cars should be considered as daily drivers only if you are willing and capable of caring for it's daily or weekly needs yourself. Like most beautiful things of this world, an XKE is a relatively high maintainancee item. It is not an appliance commuter car which will run for 100000 miles with little or no attention. Regular upkeep is required.

    "Granted there were some inconveniences that would occur depending on weather, such as rainy days the windshield would tend to fog up along with the rest of the windows so I would have to keep them very clean, the footwells got extremely hot in the summer time so I would keep all windows and rear quarters open. I faithfully changed the oil and filter every 2,000 miles, checked all fluids weekly. Regarding maintenance I did everything myself, calipers, hydraulic clutch cylinder rebuild, fan motor replacement, carb sync, plugs, timing, dist rebuild, tachometer sender repair etc....lots of small items. Never had any major electrical problems with the car. I do sincerely believe that if you can keep your car out of the repair shops and do the work yourself you will never have as many problems related to electrical or mechanical. During the past 14 years the car has been used on weekends and is now nearing restoration completion to once again become a daily driver."
    Ed (edf@studio.sgi.com)
    "I drive a '69 2+2 for an everyday car during the summer months. It has 107,000 miles, and is running just fine. I do about 10K per year. The key is to keep the car in tip top shape at all times. If you let something go, it gets bad very quickly."
    Mike Frank (mfrank@westnet.com)

What to look for when buying an E-type


From an article by (MikeC )

  1. Check for rust.

    Good places to look include the sills (a solid thump with your fist should not yield the sound of lots of rust flakes raining down inside the sill). Check all the body seams, especially the leaded ones, for evidence of rust. This will usually show as paint bubbling. Check the front mounts of the rear radius arms (under the triangular trim pieces at either end of the storage box behind the seats). They will rust out fairly quickly on winter driven cars in the snow belt. It's usually a good indicator of other more hidden problems. Check the floor in the front footwells. If the car has great paint, then hopefully you should be able to tell that the car was properly stripped and prepared. Beware the cosmetic paint job, a coat of paint can cover a multitude of sins. "Rusty floor pans are VERY common in E-types -- especially OTS (roadsters). My car has a nice see-through hole to the highway on the driver side." Richard O. Lindsay (rlindsay@amoco.com)

  2. Check it out mechanically.

    Test drive it thoroughly. Does EVERYTHING work? Does it shift smoothly? Does it idle, accelerate and run smoothly and evenly?

  3. Take it to a local independent Jag mechanic for a pre-purchase exam.

    Make sure you get one with recommendations, and one that is experienced with E-Types. Many excellent Jag mechanics have seldom if ever touched an E-Type. They've been out of production a long time, and there is virtually no useful correlation between XJ-6 or XJ-S knowledge and E-Types. Pay him a fair fee. You can expect to eat up a lot of money fixing problems on a car like this if it isn't already in good overall condition.

      "Never, never again will I buy sight unseen. Never, never again without professional advice. And if the price seems too good to be true: of course it is!"
      Mike Frank (mfrank@westnet.com)
  4. If the seller is a dealer, get a guarantee.

    Don't get to excited about something like 90 days parts and labor. Unless you live in a very temperate part of the US, you won't drive it much in the next 90 days. A guarantee that applies through Spring should take care of any hidden problems.

  5. Costs

    A real nice driven car with 50K miles should cost more like 25-30K, 35K tops for a really prime example. In the past few years I've almost totally refurbished my '74. All new rubber everywhere (body stuff, hoses, belts, everything), completely stripped and repainted on a rust-free, never damaged body. Rebuilt the 4-spd (the 2nd gear synchro was worn, but ya gotta do it all while it's laying on the ground), new clutch, pressure plate, etc., rebuilt carbs, rebuilt brakes, new exhaust, rechromed the original bumpers and other shiny pieces, all new interior and a long, long list of other stuff. Bottom line? It's still probably not worth much more than 35K. Since I intend to continue driving it, I didn't spend any money on the replating and cosmetically improvements required to turn it into a "complete restoration".

  6. Parts.

    Parts supply is no problem. Everything you will need is available mail order.

Bottom line: I wouldn't go over approx 35K for a driver. And, most of all, "caveat emptor"!

5. Things to consider when buying an E-type


From an article by Mike Frank (mfrank@westnet.com):

    "In the U.S., you need to do most repairs yourself-garage mechanics had a tough time with E-types when they were new, nowadays they just stare and shake their heads. I drove a Mark II in Scotland last year, and had an overheating problem on the road. I can tell you that your mechanics are more accustomed to Jaguar design, but no more anxious to get under the hood. After replacing a hose, one mechanic said to me, "One of these (Mark II's) is coming in for a valve job tommorrow. The boys are drawing straws to see who gets to NOT work on it." The good news is that the car is fairly rugged, especially considering it's age. I've never had to walk.

    Gas mileage is atrocious by modern standards. I get 14 mpg, with some performance enhancements. Oil consumption on the 4.2 is not too bad, and I have had remarkably little trouble with leakage. I use 5w-50 synthetic oil, which I change every 5,000 miles. Overheating has not been a problem, although this will probably change when I get the A/C hooked up. Once sorted out, the electrics will hold up for a good long while, but are definitely a weak spot.

    Rust is the most serious concern. Start with a clean, straight car, avoid rain and snow. Here in the States, there is a lot of salt on the roads during winter, so I keep the cat in the garage once the first snow falls.

    Parking is also a problem, particularly in urban areas. Those skinny bumpers just don't protect the car against modern-day battering rams. I plan my trips carefully, and always look for someplace that allows perpendicular parking.

    The car is an attention grabber. I suspect that's why it never has been stolen-the cops would pick it up in no time.

    The car is a delight to drive on the open highway. It can outperform most modern machinery, and has more style than anything else on the road. The 2+2 definitely gives up some handling to the SWB coupe. On the other hand, the extra space is handy for luggage, groceries, etc. City driving is a pain, as the long hood and non-power steering make New York traffic unbearable.

    The heater and defroster are pitiful, but the driveline generates enough heat to keep the interior comfortable for mild winter days. I hope to have the air conditioning going by June, but I suspect that the cooling power will be a disappointment.

    The collector value of the car is probably not going to diminish as a result of daily use. A ground-up restoration is always possible, provided you keep the rust under control. With the quality of spares and reproduction panels, even a well-used car can look new again.

6. Restoring an E-type


Richard O. Lindsay (rlindsay@amoco.com):

    Rusty floor pans are VERY common in E-types -- especially OTS (roadsters). My car has a nice see-through hole to the highway on the driver side. I will replace the footwell section only as that is the only damaged part on my car. For that there is no fancy jig required. (Others here have done the job successfully.) In fact, I plan to Pop-rivet my new pan(s) in with stainless rivets, rust proof it and undercoat both sides. Any repairs needed later will be relatively simple. If a full floor pan is needed, have it done by a Jaguar restorer of demonstrated merit. A solid jig is required to keep the monocoque in alignment. As for the rockers and doors, a judgement call is needed -- repair or replace. Personally I would compare the repair estimates to the cost/value of a new "tub". Remember, this is the structural strength of the car.

    Depending upon your "rush factor", consider rebuilding the original engine. My E-type does NOT have the original engine and it's value is diminished somewhat. The other advice that you have received concerning looking up the original numbers is good. I'd use it and find out if the other engine really is the correct engine.

    Or, you could install the already-restored engine and restore the "original" engine at your leisure. YOu would then have a low(er) milage original engine to include in the deal if you chose to sell the car later. After all, they are investments as well as toys...

    You should consider replacing any damaged tubular space frame(s) . SICP sells all these parts individually. IF the damage is minor perhaps all is well. I still wouldn't really "push" the car around too much. You might want to check the welds for cracks. You can strip the paint and wire brush the welds before inspection. The bolts that hold the space frame assembly together and to the body should be grade 8. Again, grade 5's would probably be okay unless you push it too much. But why take the risk?

    Restore your XKE in stages (parts get lost and misplaced REALLY easily). Remember, the value of your car drops considerably once it is disassembled. There are many unfinished restoration projects that have cost their owners a bundle. I chose to rebuild the engine compartment first. From the firewall metal forward my car is like new -- or should I say, like original. I stripped all of the firewall and frames to bare metal, red oxide primered then and painted them with a paint made "brighter" by BASF. All of the bolts have been replaced, unpainted as original. The original bolts have all been saved in zip-lock bags. After all, they are the original Jaguar bolts.

    Don't forget to take 10,000 pictures of EVERYTHING. The less significant it seems the more likely there won't be info around for reassembly. It sound silly but remember, bolts can go in from both sides, washers can go on different sides, lockwashers were used in some places and not in others -- just to mention a few potential confusion points. IT usually doesn't matter for performance but it DOES matter for resale value!

    I would strip the trim (carefully, it costs a none-too-small fortune) and have the car chemical striped (or perhaps bead blasted) but don't allow anyone to "sand" blast it as all of the panel jointery is done with lead which can be destroyed or badly distorted by sand blasting.

    Have the car primered after the strip and bring it home. The primer will protect it while you continue your work. I wouldn't paint it in advance of complete reassembly. It's just TOO easy to drop wrenches, etc. and end up having to respray. (Pronounce this a "spend another $5000"). As you rebuild you can paint as needed. I painted my frames and firewall in the garage. It doesn't take much investment in supplies. Do remember, most paints and reducers are DEADLY. Many use cyanide. I also repainted the inside of the boot (while restoring the fuel system) leaving the major work for the pros.

    A cleaning and "gauging" of the gearbox and diff may be all that is needed. If work is needed you will already have done the hard work. While the engine is out, replace the clutch. It's a real pain to change later is you have a problem.

7. E-Type Stories from the Jag-lovers group


"About 15 years ago I had my 63 E-type roadster. I was much younger then and drove much faster. During one of my late afternoon 100+ Mph blasts down the back-country roads here in Utah, one of my sun visors moved up into the airstream. It was ripped off by the high speed air. My buddy and I slowed down, turned around and went back to get it only to find some old man by the road side mad as hell since he thought that we had trown something at him. So, make sure that you either drive slow Mike or tie your sun visors down !" Jim Cantrell (jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu)

"As I am fast approaching 50 this July, I told my wife last Christmas that I was having a mid-life crisis and either needed to have an affair or buy a Jag! She asked me what kind of Jag I wanted! After a little searching here in town, we found a British car shop that had a basket-case 70 E-Type roadster. They were going to restore it but after restoring a 71, they could not justify the time or expense until the 71 got sold. I didn't really want it but my wife kept telling me that I would only kick myself for the next 15 years if I passed it up. Needless to say, with that kind of support, the E now resides in my garage. I was truly fortunate in that after I got it stripped down, there was very little rust. The floorpans had rusted out where they had accumulated water during storage but that was all I could find. It is an Arizona car with only 56K miles on it. The down side is that during the 5 years it sat at the car place, they misplaced many small items as they were starting the restoration. I have spent about $1,500 on new and used bits and pieces and I believe that I now have about 98% of the car. I am close to painting it and reassembling it and hope to be able to take my wife for a spin it it by this Christmas. I'll keep you posted on my progress." George W. Cohn (gwcohn@azstarnet.com)

"Some time ago, I had a SII E Type OTS that I was doing body work on in a night class & I drove it to school & back on a regular basis. One night, it rained & after going through a particularly large mud puddle, the car died & wouldn't start again. Turned out to be a wet distributor & all was well again the next day after I got everything dried out. My boss at the time had the real explanation for the Jag's propensity for failure to operate properly in wet conditions - "EVERYONE knows that cats don't like water!" Ever since then, I don't aim for mud puddles when driving a Jaguar with an XK engine & its low-mounted distributor." Steve A. (SteveAv@aol.com)

"A friend of mine was looking at the Jag this afternoon. "With all those switches on the dashboard, how can you tell them apart at night?" he asked. "No problem", I replied, "those are Lucas switches. No matter which one you hit, nothing happens." Michael Frank (mfrank@westnet.com)

"Speaking of e-type stories, I had a very frightening experience about 15 years ago. I had a 63 E-type roadster that was in beautiful condition. It was summer time here in Utah and I was returning home late one night (2-3 AM) and driving through my little town of 600 people. I decided to open up the car in second gear on the main road through town before retiring for the night (I was much less concerned about police and bodily injury back then). I opened up the throttle and pushed real hard on the pedal. To my amazement, the throttle stuck wide open. I was rather shocked and had no real contingency plan for this type of occurance. As I approached what I considered 300 MPH (an optical illusion surely), I panicked and pushed in the clutch. The engine revved up to about 7000 RPM before I got enough of a thought to turn the key off. I was totally amazed to find out that no damage to the engine was apparent. The cause: the throttle linkage had gone over-center and stuck wide open. I had a similar situation happen in a much more powerful car with an automatic and the earlier experience taught me what not to do. Here, I calmly pushed HARD on the brake and turned the key off. Not even a drop of sweat this time." Jim Cantrell (jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu)

"When I was a young stud of 21, my very first car was a 64 E-Type roadster. One evening while going home after visiting my parents, I came upon a Porche while crossing some mountains. He decided to race me and we went at it neck-to-neck at speeds up to 90 mph over this two-lane twisty mountain road. I was finally getting the best of him when I blew a freeze plug out of the engine! Needles to say, this put me out of the race at once. I hitch hiked some 30 miles back to town where my father helped me find a freeze plug and we came back and installed it in the dark by the side of the road. After refilling the water, I continued on home. This incident never seemed to have caused me any adverse problems and I finally sold the car in 1973 for a princely $1,500 when I bought my new Datsun 240Z. Had I known then what I know now, I would have been much better off to just store the car for the last 23 years. Ah 20-20 hindsight." George W. Cohn (gwcohn@azstarnet.com)

"One of my first jobs was to change the oil filter on my E-Type 2+2. This is not a modern spin-on type but consists of a cartridge inside a cover with a central bolt which pulls the cover onto an O-ring in a groove. I changed the O-ring and thought it was in the groove, even though working through the hand hole in the undertray it was impossible to see all round the groove even with a mirror. But it wasn't in the groove... Although dark, I eagerly went for a test drive round my usual circuit which involves about a mile of warm-up followed by blasting up a long hill to allow glorious use of full power. As I reached the top, doing about 90, I routinely scanned the oil pressure: ZERO! I switched off and coasted to a rapid halt. Oil everywhere, on the undertray, under the car, on the rear wheel. Sump empty. I walked to the nearest petrol station, bought 2 gal of oil, poured it in and started the engine. To my utter relief, oil pressure appeared. I set off for home, switching off between short bursts and coasting down the long hill.
At the bottom I had to brake to turn off and as I did so - the whole bonnet (hood) swung up, completely obscuring the way ahead. I had to stop quickly or I'd hit something but any decel caused the front to drop and scrape the fender on the road. Ugggh. With all the excitement and in the dark I had omitted to latch the bonnet and the PO had removed the safety catch. The next day, in the light, I retraced my journey. The oil trail ran clearly all the way to the bottom of the hill, then completely stopped. I can therefore only assume the car did at least half a mile on mostly full power with no oil pressure. Amazing. And no after effects - plenty of oil pressure afterwards and no bearing problems. What oil? Castrol GTX. Two merciful escapes in one night. Much to be thankful for."
Chris Longrigg (chris@zodiac.win-uk.net)

"Being the proud owner of a 1966 E-Type Coupe for over 25 years, I would like to share a story about an encounter that took place in 1989:

It was a sunny Saturday morning around 7:30AM when I was driving down a freeway on-ramp on my way to work (yep on a Saturday no less). As I entered the freeway at 50mph a brand new redder than red Ferrari Testarosa sporting those bug-antenna like side mirrors and paper license plate blew by me doing around 70mph, needless to say it startled me cause I was in kind of a daze with the morning and all. He passed so close that he actually buffeted my car. Instant adrenalin - and I took off after him and sat beside him in a heart beat, still doing around 70 (I am guessing on these speeds due to the fact that my speedo cable was not hooked up). He was an older fellow (about my age) wearing a chrome white driving suit with gloves and glasses that wrapped around his entire head. Casualy he looked over at me on his left and almost snickered as he eyeballed my white coupe with dark grey patches of primer here and there that sort of resembled a four legged creature that munches grass out in the fields. Anyhow, he decided to leave this primered beast and move on, as he nailed that beautiful red Ferrari, he didn't even bother to shift, well I did and yep I blew right by him, and only after he realized that he was being had, did he down shift and try to catch me, well since we both were going the same direction we had to negotiate a somewhat small freeway interchange, and let me tell you he was on my butt as we went through the S curve and back out onto the flat, and this time he tried to pass me on my left, so I redlined (yep my tachometer worked), and once again I was walking away from him by a couple of mph which is quite a bit at speed.

Abruptly he slowed down and took an off ramp, didn't know if that was indeed his destination or he just wanted to find a place to get out and kick is car. My exit came so I got off and pulled into the company parking lot, jumped out of my coupe and walked around until my legs stopped shaking and my back unknotted. I know by now all of you reading this story are saying yeah-in your dreams, no way an E can blow off a Testarosa, but let me tell you it is true, and in the Testarosa owners eyes he was thoroughly beaten by a Jaguar XKE. Anyhow as I walked around the car I noticed a little water drizzle coming out from under the car, so I tilted up the bonnet and identified the problem to be the water hose clamp on the top of my small block LT-1 lump, it needed to be tightened a half turn." Ed Freige (edf@borrego.studio.sgi.com)

"In about 1985 F.R.W.(Lofty) England visited Australia .In Melbourne,the JCCV organised a tour of members garages to look at restoration projects. One member had built a shed in his back yard and had an E type body on a rotisserie and with a mig welder was indeed a serious restorer. He gave a talk, how it was a US import and how he had replaced almost all the body panels because of rust. The grand man looked thoughtful,put his hand on his chin "Rust prevention!"he said "when we built these,you know we never painted anywhere you couldn't see." And as any E Type restorer will tell you he was right." Don Tracey (dont@echuca.net.au)

"#1 Right after I got the car I was demonstrating it to the wife. She was somewhat of a skeptic about spending $13,000 for a 23 year old car. I was proudly exclaming how modern it was since it had air conditioning. The outside temp that day was 105F. As we cruised smugly down a very heavily trafficed street in town, smiling proudly at the pedestrians as they admired it, suddenly there was the sound of a 12 guage shotgun going off. Scared the bejeuses out of me. White smoke began pouring from every louver in the hood, out from under the wheel wells and any other place it could find its way out. I pulled quickly to the side of the road and poped the bonnet. It was imediately obvious that the AC hose ran too close to the exhaust manifold and had exploded spraying freon onto the manifold generating the white smoke. I immediately slammed the bonnet down and drove off to the utter amazement of the spectators who had gathered. They couldnt believe that it was still able to drive away.

#2 A week later I was cruising (if you can call 120MPH cruising) down a familiar country road where I knew there would be no police officers. I was wrong. As I came around a corner to enter the freeway there was a trooper looking right at me through the sights of his radar gun. I hit the brakes and slowed to about 80-90 by the time I got to him, but he had caught me at 120 and I knew it. The limit was 55! As I got to him a big smile spread across his face as he droped the gun to his side and just waved as I blew past. Sometimes it pays to be driving an exotic. If I had been in the Seville I would have paid dearly for that indescression.

#3 This one realy scared me. I was driving a twisty back country road late at night at about 80mph when I reached down to turn off the interior light. Hit the wrong switch and extinguished both the headlights and dash lights. All those damned switches (they wouldnt pass DOT now days) feel the same in the dark and I couldn't find the one for the headlights! I just started slowing down as fast as I could and relied on my memory of what I had seen before the lights went out to guide the car. Luckily I got it stoped on the side of the road and then found the correct switch." James A. Isbell (JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu)

"When I purchased my E-Type, the body was rusted but the driveline had been carefully and expensively refurbished. The transmisison was so new it didn't even have dust on it. The head had been removed, but I didn't know what all had been done inside. The PO was the traditional "Little old man" and had died.
But every time I turned right, the car would stagger, stumble, miss and die. At first the problem felt like a carburator float malfunction, but after experimenting a bit I noticed it would run if I jerked the wheel to the left, then quit when I turned back to the right.
So I started looking at electrical solutions. No oil leaking from the coil, nothing abnormal with the distributer. So when I pulled the bonnet off to clean and repaint I followed the wireing carefully.
Sure enough, the low voltage wire on the coil was barely connected. When I turned right it would pull off far enough to disconnect. Going straight or turning left it made contact. Six inches of new wire and a connector at each end made for the cheapest fix one could hope for."
LLoyd (3030P%NAVPGS.BitNet@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU)

"I guess the pain has subsided enough that I can share the story of my car, the one that got away.
I live in Monterey Ca. One day I saw an ad for a '70 Jaguar XKE Convertable, best offer. I said, sure, but not in my price range, so I didn't call. A week went by and the ad was still in there. What the heck, so I called.
Turned out it ran and the owner drove it into the garage, a warm, dry, heated garage in a residential area. They were turning the garage into a den and need- ed the space. It sat there three years. They had just sold it a few minutes ago but thanks for calling. I asked if they would tell me how much they got for it. Five thousand dollars, they said.
I asked if I could come over and look at it. They said OK, so off I went. It was beautiful. Almost perfect black leather interior, british racing green, wires in great shape, and not a spot of rust could I find. The only thing wrong was a cracked windshield.
I don't awaken at night crying any more, but then again I haven't told anyone about it either. I haven't seen it around town, the new owner is probably laughing so hard he can't steer." LLoyd (3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU)

"At the risk of these E-type stories getting old I'll keep it short! I took my Dan '69 E-type series II OTS down to the local coin-op car wash to give it a good cleaning (I like using the foam engine degreaser they have in those guns). I was done cleaning my cat and pushed it over to a parking stall to dry the distributor cap and the rest of the car. 8-) I pushed it around the corner and parked it right next to a guy in his series III coupe. It was silver with red interior and one of the nicest looking coupes I've ever seen. After talking with him for a little while I learned that he was just finishing up a ground up restoration and had already sold the car to Ferrari of Los Gatos (northern CA). After we'd both finished drying everything we could find under the bonnet (so the engines would run) he fired it up. WOW!, talk about music! The combination of a freshly rebuilt V12 and the resonators he had on the car made for some beautiful sounds. He asked if I wanted to go for a spin so I thought about it for about a millisecond and got in the car. The reason I said that he was "finishing" up the restoration was because he hadn't received the windshield gasket that he'd ordered so he was driving it around without a windshield. We were both in our twenties and thought we were cool so we took off down the nearby expressway.
Picture this! A bright sunny day with two idiots flying down an expressway in a silver E-type coupe at about 100mph, no windshield, hot air coming out of the engine compartment cooling vents and both guys looking sideways out the front attempting to see. IT WAS GREAT!!
I gave him a ride in my car when we got back but that was boring. 8-)"
Dan Graves

"Some thirty years ago as I was driving my E OTS down the road in a sweltering 115 degree day in July with the top down. I hit a small bump and the wipers came on! Not a cloud in the sky and here's this idiot with three wipers swishing back and forth! The wiper switch wasn't on and I couldn't make them stop! I finally pulled over to the side of the road and raised the blades off the glass so as not to scratch it. After I got home, I found that the wiper parking switch part of the mechanism had shorted out. (I don't know why I didn't think of the fuse at the time).
Want to know why there are no famous English astronauts? They got in their first space vehicle, saw all the controls were marked "Made by Lucas" and ran screaming from the launch pad! :-)"
George W. Cohn (gwcohn@azstarnet.com)


From: Michael Frank 
Subject: XKE Story: how not to buy a Jag

Last year, we began looking for a new old car. My dream car was a mid-30's Bentley, but my wife couldn't warm up to the idea. After looking around a bit, flirting with an Alfa, we realized that an XKE would be the perfect driven classic.

Although the Series I's looked the best, we wanted a Series II or III, because of the relatively modern safety equipment. We then searched high and low for a good car. I've never seen so much rust in my life! We saw cheap cars, which only lived because they were XKE's, and expensive cars which weren't worth the price.

Finally I saw an ad in that national publication with the brown cover. A 'perfect', 'fully restored', 'rust free', 1969 XKE 2+2. It had several 'high performance' modifications, including defederalized triple SU's and headers. I called the soon to be PO immediately.

He said that the ad had a great response, and that several buyers had already called, and the car would go to the first money. He was selling the car to make space for a new project Porche. To save time, he had made up some videos, and gladly sent me a copy.

The car looked great on tape! Everything the ad had said. Perfect, just perfect! One problem: the car was located in a great American city about 800 miles from New York, so I couldn't go out to inspect it. Fortunately, I knew someone in that city who was persuaded, reluctantly, to go out and see the car. He called me enthusiastically endorsing the purchase: in his defense, he had protested from the first that he was not an expert. Everything seemed ok, so I bought the car then and there. Yes, that's right, sight unseen. I was afraid that one of those other buyers would snatch it up.

I then went back to the brown book to arrange for shipping. I found a transporter who 'just happened' to be passing by where the car was, and would be glad to pick it up for a reduced rate. He called two days later and told me that his truck broke down and he couldn't make the pickup. So I started looking for another shipper. Before I could cut a deal, the first trucker called back, reported that his truck was on the road, and that he would do the job for the original price. A bargain is a bargain, so I said go do it. He caled me up a week later to let me know that another emergency had come up, and he didn't get to my car. He had a number of scheduled hauls to do, so he couldn't do the pick up for nearly two weeks.

I thought about it a bit, and decided to take the train out, and drive the car home. Now when the PO heard about this, he was verrrrry nervous. I should have known something then. He sent the car to a local Jag mechanic to have the carbs set up, as a favor. That is where I picked it up.

I arrived at the Jag shop on an overcast morning. The place seemed very competent, with XJS's everywhere you looked, and a couple of XKE's. The PO wasn't there, but the mechanic had the keys. My car wasn't hard to find. It was cherry red, and loaded with boxes of old parts(garbage). I checked it over quickly. It looked a lot sadder than in the video, but maybe it was the overcast morning. Without any further ado, I jumped in and drove off.....

About ten blocks from the garage, the engine started to sputter. I looked at the guages, as I should have from the first, and the battery was on full discharge. I chugged into a gas station, popped the bonnet, and had the attendant charge up the battery. Hopped back in, went back to the Jag mechanic. Alternator wasn't charging. New alternator installed. Still not charging. Uh-oh says Mr. Jagwrench, *&%$#$% PO has totally miswired these relays. A few minutes of fiddling and we are back in business. Do I want to keep the new alternator? Sure. $350.

All the way home smelling raw gas and foul exhaust. Eight hundred miles of pure agony. Even the thumbs up and envious stares of passersby is small compensation for a rolling gas chamber. I drove as fast as possible, with the windows fully down.

Get home, put it in the garage. Soon the entire house smells of raw gasoline. Wife pushes me out of bed to do something, before we blow up. Pop the bonnet. Fiber washers on the fuel rail had either been reused or abused.. turning on the ignition shows a steady drip, drip, drip from every banjo fitting. No new washers, so I drain the rail and use a wire hanger to hold it high. Wash up the gas as best I can, and go to bed. The house will continue to smell of gas for two weeks. My wife knows not to ask if we made a mistake.

It is now almost a year later. How close to 'perfect' was this Jag? Well, the body is, indeed, very nice. Not perfect, but fine for a driven car. There is controllable rust in the floorboards, and some bondo in the nose. The drivers door sags, and I have a new hinge waiting to be installed. I happened into a complete interior kit, which I have been installing a bit at a time.

The drivetrain is ok, but I need to adjust the tappets one of these days. The rear axle is an untouched original. No problems, but not really a good thing in a 27 year old car. The previous owner had installed a hot cam, which has made the car really hard to tune. A very good Jag guy told me that the flywheel is somehow 5 degrees off, which contributes to the tuning problem.

The brakes are problematic. The PO told me he installed a rebuilt booster, metal sleeves, silicone brake fluid and new lines. All of the above applies only to the fronts, however. I had to replace the check valve and all the vacuum hoses.

The tires, I was told, had only a couple of thou on them. This may have been the case, but the car had sat so long, the tires had uncorrectable flat spots. The wires were so rusty and out of true, that they went to Jag heaven with the tires. Wheel bearings and ball joints are tired, but serviceable for now.

The headers had to go. There just wasn't enough room for the exhaust clamps. Without clamps, exhaust blew right into the passenger compartment. With clamps, the exhaust caught on every bump, and finally tore itself apart. Noise, sickening fumes, bad smells... my new Double SS exhaust fixed all of that!

The heater didn't leak when the car was delivered. This is because it was capped off. I had to replace the entire heater box, core , and fan. Every hose in the cooling system had to be replaced. The PO had evidently had some hose problems. In some cases, these were fixed by patching in a new segment of hose with a piece of pipe to connect to the stub of the old hose.

The carbs had to be completely rebuilt, and I am still fiddling with them. The original jets had totally petrified! The distributor (a dual-point Mallory) has caused a few problems: It was delivered with only one set of points, rather than two, and the hold down bolt was stripped, which didn't help that timing problem.

The PO told me he had installed 'new cooling fans'. One of these just burned out, in a cloud of black smoke. I guess it's easy to mistake 'new' with 'bought a part at the junkard'. The 'complete air conditioner' had been rendered inoperative because the headers didn't leave room for the hoses. The PO just cut the hoses away. There was so much dirt in the system that every part will need to be replaced before it will run again. (I just found the last part!, soon , soon!).

These are just a few of the larger problems I have encountered. For all that, I am very, very happy with this car. I thought I had a bargain: I actually paid exactly what the car was worth. As the deal becomes a memory, I find that the car is improving by the day. We have been able to take it out every weekend, and even on a few long trips. Every time I drive it, I find and fix another problem. I think that soon it will settle down to normal maintenance.

Only one big problem remains: the trucker who I originally hired to haul the car back keeps calling for work. Does anyone have a car this guy can haul? Get him off my back! Please!

Moral of the story: never, never again will I buy sight unseen. Never, never again without professional advice. And if the price seems too good to be true: of course it is!

Mike and Iris Frank
1969 XKE 2+2 (OUR CAT)


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