7.2 - Brake Switches ( ,  )

If there seems to be oil dripping out of the wire end of either switch attached to the accumulator the switch needs to be replaced. They are not cheap and they are two different switches so make sure you get the right one.

7.20 - Front Suspension Replacement ( ,  )

With the suspension jacked up remove the top nut. (see below) then lower the suspension and the weight of the lower suspension and spring pressure will pull the shock down. The shock tends to extend itself as you lower the suspension so you will need to reach under the mudguard and compress it a little by hand to get the top stud clear. It may be worth replacing the lower shock mount (metalastik bush) but it is difficult to remove and replace in situ without a proper tool.

The official Jaguar Tool is a long and strong bolt with the appropriate adapters to allow winding out the old bush and winding in the new.

An extended socket might help but the problem is that, once you have loosened the nut the first half turn or so, the body of the shock turns as you turn the nut due to the nut being a 'Nyloc'. Thus there are flats on the top of the stud that take a spanner to stop this turning. This means that you need an open ended on the nut to hold it while you turn the top of the stud - or vice versa.

7.21 - Wheel Bearings ( Pete Crosby,  December 15, 2001 )

Here are the bearing and race numbers and they should fit any 1987-1989 XJ40. I don't know if they are the same for later cars. Someone with a complete parts list could check and see if the Jaguar part numbers are the same for all years. These are TIMKEN numbers:

Outer bearing: L45449
Outer race: L45410
Inner Bearing: L68149
Inner race: L68111

7.21.1 - Wheel Bearing Packing ( Al Diamant,  December 15, 2001 )

Both front and rear bearings should be cleaned and regreased at 100,000 miles at least, however it’s worth doing more often.

A dangerous practice is to clean the old bearings in gasoline. It does work well, but I have seen too many accidental explosions. The bearing should have two baths. AVOID THE TENDANCY TO MAKE THE BEARING SOUND LIKE A SIREN BY SPINNING IT WITH HIGH PRESSURE AIR. The bearing is dry and will score the surfaced if spun rapidly without lube. Just blow it dry without theatrics.

Clean the hub, getting rid of all excess grease. Make sure the races are clean and not scored. Use high quality grease designed for wheel bearings. It almost appears to be fibrous. Put a heavy coating of grease only on the races. DO NOT PACK THE HUB WITH GREASE. This excess grease cannot get to the bearings and only serves to ooze out of the seal. Always replace the seals with new ones.

One of the best bearing packer is a heavy duty hypodermic needle connected to a hand grease gun. There are commercial needles sold that do the job.

Insert the needle from the side of the roller, in between two rollers, filling the void with grease. Do this for every set of rollers. Keep track of where you started by inserting a toothpick between rollers at the starting point. With your hands, coat the surfaces of the bearings with a healthy amount of grease. Insert in the races, insert new seal. Its a thankless job, but someone has to do it. Do it yourself as most garages use a one shot pneumatic packer, and don't even clean the old bearing beyond wiping the surface.

7.21.2 - Wheel Bearing Adjustement ( ,  )

While turning wheel (consequently hub) in a forward direction torque hub nut to 20 Ft Lbs... Tightening to 20 foot-pounds while rotating the hub "seats" the bearing without leaving an impression in the bearing races. If you do not rotate the hub you run a risk of damaging the races.

Stop turning, loosen the hub nut till it unscrews easily by hand, re-torque to 5 - 6 Ft Lbs.

Make sure the bearing stays pressed against the race while you loosen the hub nut. If the bearing pops off the race when the hub nut is loose you will have to start again from scratch. Do yourself a favor an invest in an inexpensive ( < $18) Inch Pound torque wrench.

7.22 - A-Frame Bushes ( ,  )

Replacing the large bushes in the rear A frame that locate it to the body.

What isn't obvious from looking at the new bushes (which are about 4.5 inches in diameter and plain cylinder shape) is that the bush housing is hour-glass shape inside and so is the metal insert in the bush. Therefore a great deal of pressure is required to remove and replace.

For some then, the only option is to remove the entire A frame from the car and take it your dealer or local workshop. Removal of the Frame is actually fairly simple, but requires a number of Trolley Jacks and Axle Stands. The following applies to ‘88 models.

1. Jack up the car and place Stands under the Jacking Points.

2. Remove the wheels. Jack up each hub as much as possible without raising the car off the Stands under the jacking points, and place stands under each hub to take the weight.

3. Jack up the front centre of the A frame very slightly, and place another Stand under the bracket that pokes through the large oval shaped hole in the A frame. (This bracket is used for locating the pivot on the suspension arms)

4. At this point, the Diff and suspension is entirely supported on Stands.

5. Remove the nuts securing the fuel pump and push it free from the A frame.

6 Remove the 4 bolts that secure the A frame to the Diff and the Nuts and Bolts along the front edge of the A frame that hold it to the vertical part of the frame. You may have to disconnect the rear section of the exhaust (left side only) and move it to the side to get enough leverage on some of the nuts.

7. Be sure not to be underneath the frame when the last bolt comes out. It is quite heavy.

8. Let the frame drop down over the Stand supporting the front pivot bracket. Take the weight of the diff, which is now fully exposed, with a jack and then remove the axle stand.

9. Withdraw the A Frame from underneath the car, replace the Axle stand under the Pivot bracket, and remove the Jack.

Now take the A frame and Bushes to your dealer. Local jag dealer will charge around £14 to remove and replace bushes.

The Bushes themselves cost about £12.50

Replacement is, as they say, a reversal of the removal procedure.

7.29 - Sports Pack ( ,  )

Here is a detailed description of what the "Sports-Pack" introduced around 1990 includes:

Front Spring rates increased by 50%

Rear Spring rates increased by 11%

"Damping retuned" to suit above

Anti-Roll Bar fattened to 23mm (58% stiffer)

Ride height reduced (15mm Front, 10mm rear)

Power Steering assistance reduced

Limited Slip Differential (Except where already fitted)

Self leveling rear suspension (Except where already fitted)

8x16" Alloys wearing 225/55 ZR 16 Pirelli P600s.