Replacing AC Evaporator 83 XJ6
Replacing AC Evaporator 83 XJ6
Alex Lynch
Well, I felt it was finally time to tackle that leaking AC evaporator, although
the leak was small it was getting expensive recharging it about three times
during the summer.
I had a factory manual that was not entirely accurate as I found out. I believe
that the procedure described is for the earlier models (i.e., Series 2). My car is
a 1983 Series 3 XJ6. I also had a Haynes manual but this did not have anything
about removing the AC box -- except a short paragraph about the cautions of
dismantling an AC system. Anyway because of this lack of information, I felt
that it might be a good idea
to write-up the procedure for others who might need to get to the AC box or for
that matter anything else behind the dash since the whole dash had to come out.
Following is the procedure as I remember it but most of it is rather intuitive
and straight forward. You will only need common hand tools and patience since
there is a large amount of wiring that needs to be disconnected.
Anyway everything is nice and cool now and I learned a lot about the mysterious
connections that up until this project I only saw from laying on my back looking
up under the dash.
PROCEDURE FOR REMOVING THE AC EVAPORATOR
1983 Jaguar Series 3 XJ6, North American Model
Looking back on this project I feel preparation is the most important
rule to follow. Have a clear area where you can lay out the parts as you remove
them, pieces like the dash front are large and fragile and you must lay it on a
large well-padded flat area. I used the hood of the TR3 covered with a couple
of blankets. This worked out well since it also gave me a convenient spot to work
on the back of the dash (i.e., cleaning electrical connectors and checking
bulbs).
You should also have a quantity of zip lock bags with masking tape. I put parts in
bags and then wrote a description on the tape and affixed it to the bag. Also
absolutely mandatory are wire markers, these are thin pieces of tape that come
in a book that are numbered, as you disconnect each harness connector you wrap a
numbered piece around each end with the same number. You do not have to use this
method but do not even think about disconnecting wires without some plan on how
to reconnect. There are lots of wires all through the dash and the console.
This not a job that can be rushed through it took me about 10 hours to take it
apart and about 8 to put it back together. In addition to the above, all I needed
was a couple of screw drivers and a few common wrenches, sockets, etc.
- The first step is to find a service station that can
discharge the system. Even if you think the system is empty it would be wise to
have it professionally discharged since even a small amount can blind you if you
open a connection and the gas sprays out under pressure. You may also want them to
disconnect the hoses to the expansion valve at this time since it can be tricky
getting in there due to the limited amount of space.
- Once you get back to the area where you will perform your work, first thing to
do is disconnect the battery. I did the work in the driveway, but you can
get more work time if you use a garage.
- Moving inside the vehicle remove the steering wheel. This can be a little
confusing and the AC section of the manual is really not clear on how to do it.
Here are step-by-step instructions. (a)Remove the lower shroud and turn wheel one
revolution till you see a grub screw and lock nut. (b) Loosen locknut and turn out
grub screw about two turns. (c) Turn the wheel back to its original position
(straight ahead) and lock in the straight ahead position. (d) Now loosen and remove
the bolt on the collet clamp. You have to remove the bolt! (At first I only
loosen it and couldn't figure out why the wheel would not come off. The bolt is in
a groove in the steering column.) (e) Pull straight back and the wheel, along with
spline and hand adjuster, will come off. (f) Now loosen one small silver screw
from the plastic clamp holding the wiper, turn switch module, then remove two
screws from the upper shroud. (g) These three screws are removed from below.
You can pull the assembly off the column and then remove the upper shroud.
- Remove the plastic side covers that are located at each end of the dash
below the A pillars. There is one screw at the lower edge that holds it in place.
- Next remove the crash roll (top of dashboard). This was easy. Just remove the four
screws on the underside in front of the dash. I found
it easier to pull the crash partially off, then prise out the map light, then pull
off the temp sensor hose, then remove crash roll.
- At this point I removed the bolts from the demist support rail. (This is
the rail that is at the top of the dash and below the lower edge of the crash
roll). It holds the demister ducts in place. Disconnect the vacuum connections
from the rear of the ducts.
- Next remove the console side covers. They are afixed with two screws in the
vent outlet and the under-dash knee covers (under-scuttle). The screws are at the
top and bottom edges and one on each side below the A pillars.
- The next step was to remove the radio. First remove the AC control knobs (pull
off), then use two small screwdrivers or a pair of needle nose pliers to turn
the shaft nuts behind the control knobs. Pull the control panel out slightly
and remove the radio. (I have a Sony aftermarket unit that pops out when
depressing two spring clips. I believe the original is removed by undoing the
radio shaft nuts and separating from the control panel.) Anyway feed the fiber
optic leads out far enough to lay the control panel face down on the console.
From the back, prise off the spring nuts that hold
the fiber optic leads under the plate. I used a small screwdriver with a blade
that fit in the slots on the spring and worked it off. Separate the pieces and
remove the fiber optic links then put it back together loosely so you will not
have to remember how it goes together. Set it aside.
- Now remove the two screws that hold the center switch assembly and the trip
computer in place. Pull it forward and detach the wiring harness plugs from the
switches and the trip computer. Be sure to mark each connection for reassemble.
Remove and set aside. Next remove the two screws from below the parcel shelf.
NOTE: At the center section we just discussed, there are three sets of two
screws: two at the top, middle, and bottom. These screws are all different
sizes and pitch, which wasn't obvious to me until I was reassembling. Mark them
now as top (parcel shelf),middle(trip computer panel) and bottom (AC control panel).
- Next I removed the glove box liner screws (6) around the perimeter. I
removed the screws but didn't remove the liner since the dash was coming
off. You can remove it as easily once the dash is removed. From underneath,
remove the screws (two each) that hold the ignition switch and the master
light module to the dash and collect the plastic housings from each.
- On to the dash(fascia). Remove the couple of bolts on the demist
support rail from underneath. There is bolt at each end under the A pillars.
Now take your time with this next step. Slowly pull the dash up and tilt it
over so the you can lay it face down on the parcel shelf gently. In this
way, you can disconnect the wiring plugs from the back of the gauges, the
speedo and tachometer. Don't forget to mark each with their mates.
Once these connections
are separated, lift the dash out of the car and lay it face down on
that nice flat soft area you already prepared. Right?
- Okay so far so good. Next remove the demist support rail.
This was a
little tricky. There are bolts at the extreme ends at the A pillars
that you can
just get a socket on to remove them, but the rail is in recesses at
each end so you can't pull it right out. I got it to come free by
pushing it all the
way to the left side, then applying a downward twisting motion towards the
rear of the car.
You may have to play with it a little but it will come out. An alternative would
be to remove the A pillar casings for more access.
- Now its time to remove the center console. Remove the lid and
the insert
of the center glove box by removing the screws around the perimeter and
prising
out the plastic snap piece at the front center. Remove insert and
then remove
screw at top center that secures the window switch panel. Pull this
piece up
slightly and remove the window, sunroof and window inhibit
switches. Mark for proper reassembly. Remove the shift T handle piece.
Then
lift the panel over the shift arm and disconnect the wiring from the cruise
inhibit switch. Remove the panel.
- Start at the rear bottom of the center console, working from the back
seat. Remove one screw from each side, prise up the metal surround
holding the
rear window switches. Work carefully with a wide thin blade screwdriver.
There are
six pins that push in holding the piece in place. By working around the
perimeter you can
free it. Once free, remove the switches from the piece and then
remove the rear piece it was attached to.
You can now remove two hidden screws, one from each side of the
rear of the console. Inside the
console there are four screws in the bottom holding the console to the
transmission tunnel. Remove screws and lift out the center console.
Be careful of the
fiber optic unit.
- Now it's time to move under the hood. Remove the A/C hoses from the
expansion valve and evaporator. This is tricky because there is hardly
any room to maneuver. When they are removed it is a good idea to seal
them off. I used a
couple ziploc bags secured with duct tape. Then remove the coolant
hoses and
finally remove the two silver (aluminum?) nuts (about 3/4 inch) on the
firewall that are attached to the AC box.
One is next to the coolant pipes and the
other is
about 20 inches to the left on the firewall. (Left is looking toward
the back of the car, but you won't have any problem finding them).
- Moving back inside the cabin, remove the bracket that the AC
switches are attached to. There is a nut on each side. Pull off and
undo the AIR slider cable from
the side of the AC box. Turn the plate over. Remove small screw
underneath slider. Remove plate and undo fiber optic link. Put the
cover back on.
- On each side, push back the soft plastic blower hoses connected
to the
stub pipes on the AC box. Remove the stub pipes by using a half turn
and pulling
outwards. They come out and go back pretty easily.
- Now its time to remove the AC box. First disconnect the rest of the
wiring. There is a roundish connector on each side at the bottom. Also
carefully look at all the other wiring in case I forgot something.
There are two
vacuum connectors and the drain tubes which you can disconnect
more easily after
you move the AC box out a small way.
- OK, if everything looks good, grab the two demist outlets at the
top and with a fair amount of pulling you should hear the foam backing
start to break free as the unit comes loose.
Tilt it forward and disconnect the drain
tubes and two vacuum lines at the rear. Go slowly in case there
are connections
you missed earlier. I put it on my lap, made sure everything was
disconnected, and
maneuvered it out the passenger side door.
Be careful of the sides and the
bottom where the AC switches will still be attached. Set it down on its rear
side.
REMOVING THE EVAPORATOR
- Remove the two hex bolts on the evaporator plate and
the bracket on the
coolant pipes. Now you can remove the screws around the perimeter
that hold the cover on. Finally, undo the wiring and the bolt
attaching the thermostat to the side. Carefully pull the probe
out from the side of the evaporator. Be very careful. That
thermostat is US$191. Now slide the evaporator out of the box.
Vacuum all that deteriorated black foam that has been blowing
around your cabin for the last few years from the air ducts.
I was originally going to have
the evaporator repaired, but since I could get a new one, not factory
original, at
SICP for US$200, I figured this would last longer than a 15 year-old
Delanair. Especially since it had already sprung one leak. When
installing the new evaporator I had to slightly bend the plate
where the
pipes come out of the box. Do this slowly and firmly and keep trying
the fit.
Replace the padding on the top, bottom, and sides. Don't cover the
part that the air will be blowing across.
The reinstallation is pretty much the reverse of the removal. Pay
attention to
putting everything back in the exact reverse order. I had the box all
bolted in and realized I forgot to reattach the drain tubes.
There was no way
to do this with the box in place, at least I couldn't do it. Had to
loosen the
box again and partially move it out to get them back on. Wasted time --
not fun.
I wrote this from memory, so I might have missed a few minor items.
My reason for describing the job so carefully was that the manual's
explanation was very different in some areas (i.e., it was not necessary
to disturb the steering column or
mount). Not being sure of everything that had to be done, I started
getting a
little leery when I realized things were different. Especially when
I was pulling
on the AC box to remove it. At that point I wasn't sure if I had
removed all the
connections or if something was going to break. Anyway you'll
save a lot of money if you have a leaky evaporator and know your car a
lot better. It's also a great opportunity to clean all those connections.
Good Luck! 83 XJ6 S3 is cool again!
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