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Clutch adjustment

Clutch Adjustment

The clutch adjustment nut is at the end of it's range (spring is tightly
compressed) and there is several inches of play in the pedal. The pedal
must be pushed all the way to the floor to disengage the clutch. Is this an
indication that the release bearing is shot or could it be something else?
(At this point, I'm kicking myself for not paying more attion to this when
I had the transmission out last year.) - Bruce Cunningham, '53 XK120 OTS

Bruce: Reference: 120 Spare Parts Catalogue, Plate F. When the spherical
bearings (#51 & 72) are worn, the entire "shaft supporting clutch pedal"
(#47) displaces longitudinally when the pedal is depressed and motion to
the clutch operating shaft and throw-out bearing linkage is lost. This and
all other exterior linkage should be checked before attacking the clutch
itself. I removed the spring (#65) on the adjusting rod to gain a little
more throw. Another failure point is the tapered pin (#42) on the Clutch
Operating Fork (#41). The pin can wear and become loose or completely
shear. In either instance, the pin remnants transmit only limited motion to
the fork and throw-out/release bearing (#12). This problem requires removal
of the clutch housing. I suspect that the advice will be: if you end up
removing the clutch housing to examine the throw-out bearing etc. and
haven't replaced the clutch in the last 20K miles, that you replace it too.
The parts are not very costly. I look forward to comments from the
mechanical experts on our list. - Good luck, Dick Cavicke

Bruce, If the loss of the clutch adjustment happened rather quickly, it is
probably the clutch fork shear pins.  I had the same thing happen years ago
and removed the adjusting spring to get the clutch throw back until I
pulled the drive train. If it has been a slow process, then it could just
be the combination of the wearing of the clutch disk and throw out bearing.
You can check the spherical bearings holding the clutch shaft by having
someone step on the clutch pedal and watch for excess clutch shaft
movement. - Good Luck, Larry J

Those clutch pins are a bloody liability.  A guy here in Sydney used to fix
them by somehow fitting two!  I have once had a gradual loss of clutch over
say a week or two from this cause.  Regards, John Elmgreen

I have seen the fork welded to the shaft. 0 slippage but God help you
should you have to remove the assembly. - Bruce Baysinger

Thanks for the several suggestions. I haven't been able to find any
loosness in the various components. Since I'n not going to take the engine
out until at least next winter, I'm making a substitute clutch adjusting
rod that is one inch longer than the original to give me some
adjustment until I take it apart again. I do remember inspecting the
release bearing and it showed no significant wear. I'll just hope a pin
doesn't shear or something else doesn't go
catastrophic while we're touring Scotland in July. It wouldn't be the first
time I've driven a car with no clutch but it would detract from the fun a
bit. - Bruce Cunningham

Bruce Cunningham, there are two similar looking clutch throw out bearings
in the market. The
difference is hard to tell visually, if you don't know what to look for, so
they are easily mixed up. The MG B bearing is a approx. 1/2 inch further
apart from the clutch counterpiece on the pressure plate. When you are
luccky, you can addjust it. Much likely that the pedal reaches the ground
and your face looks pretty odd, because that is noticed at the very end of
a clutch rebuilt, when even the latest nut is tight and the finger markings
are cleaned on the bonnet and the overall is taken off to prevent the seats
get dirty. Sometimes even the engine gets cranked on. In that case the face
looks even dumber. Sorry you got to do it all over if the bearing was
selected wrong. - Arno Wahl

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