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Jag-lovers' Ebooks
- Jag-Lovers' xj40 Ebook -

6 - Electrics & Electronics ( )

6.1 - Engine Warning (early) ( )

Early XJ40's had the fueling failure disabled by taping back the BLUE-GREEN wire at the instrument pack connector. The connector is a 28 way yellow one. Without this wire connected the engine management controller cannot send the codes to the instrument pack.

An erroneous error, #1, "Spurious crank signal" could be displayed on these early models. This was supposed to be raised when the starter is engaged and the engine rpm is over 2000rpm, or no crankshaft signal at all. Turned out it was coming on all the time, so the firmware was changed in the ecu to never check for this fault.

Early vehicles had the wire pulled out of the connector. No wire, no faults! The wire can be reconnected, but expect to see this incorrect fault reported.

6.10 - Electric Windows ( )

The relays for the power windows are part of the switch assemblies. 1 relay for up and 1 for down in each switch. I don't think there are any relays for the mirrors, but if there are I think they would also be in the switch panel.

Pull off the door panel and check for power at the window motor and then trace back from there. Most likely cause is broken/loose wiring or connectors.

If you are getting power to the window motor, the gear assembly may be seized, but this is unusual on a drivers door. The gear assembly can be removed from the motor and coaxed back into working order with lots of penetrating oil and a suitable spanner on the cog.

6.11 - Instrument Panel Electronics ( John Ping,  October 20, 2001 )

On XJ40s, whether Model Year 1988 / 1989 or Model Year 1990 through 1994, the "Instrument Panel" is microprocessor controlled. Although it sounds technically sophisticated, it quite conventional by modern design / production standards. All signals, regardless of their original source, pass through the Instrument Panel's "electronic pack" prior to be routed to the appropriate gauge or display. All instruments within the Instrument Panel are replaceable on an as needed basis. Thankfully, the Instrument Panel has a solid reputation for being quite trouble-free (especially, the 90-94 years). All Instrument Panels were manufactured by Lucas and are considered precision devices.

The early models (pre-90 Model Year) utilize a combination of analog gauges (speedometer and tachometer) along with quasi-digital segmented display for ancillary parameter monitoring. As true to the early years, this Instrument Panel is subject to problematic quality control. The design is known to suffer from "cold solder" joints and other electrical connection concerns. Typically, the problems can be resolved with some judicious troubleshooting and re-soldering.

The Instrument Panel was revised to a more "driver friendly" conventional analog gauge layout for the 90 through 94 Model Years. The later models use 58 position stepper motors as the "four" ancillary gauges (voltage, fuel level, coolant temperature and oil pressure). As previously mentioned, the signals for these instruments are feed into the electronic pack microprocessor and then independently supplied to each Instrument Panel gauge. The speedometer and tachometer are the only true analog instruments, but again, being supplied via the electronic pack.

Note: Instrument Panels between the early model years and the later model years are NOT interchangeable. Panels can be interchanged between the associated Model Years, but the original "electronic pack" should be retained if possible to ensure the odometer reading for the vehicle is correct.

6.11.1 - Instrument Panel Removal ( October 20, 2001 )

Removing the Instrument Panel is a simple task. Do not be intimidated by the electronics or the fact that you are "pulling something out of the dash" as it is truly easy. The following is a step-by-step method for removing and replacing the Instrument Panel.

Step #1 - Disconnect the negative battery cable. Always ensure that this action is performed as there are continuously hot circuits in the area of the driver's footwell and Instrument Panel.

Step #2 - Remove the driver's footwell upholstery panel. There are typically four or five No.2 Phillips head sheet metal screws and two fir-tree type push-pin type connectors holding the upholstery panel to the frame.

Step #3 - Remove the driver's footwell sheet metal panel. Again, there are typically four No. 2 Phillips head sheet metal screws securing this panel to the frame.

Step #4 - Remove the "passive restraint module" (or other electrical components) from the left side of the steering column. This action is to provide additional working clearance when removing the Instrument Panel from the dash. The passive restraint module (or other components) is typically mounted with one or two No.2 Phillips head machine screws. There is no need to electrically disconnect these devices, just drop them from their mounts and position out of the way.

Step #5 - Release the Instrument Panel two multi-pin electrical connectors on the backside. Lying on your back within the driver's footwell, locate the rear of the Instrument Panel (crème colored plastic device approximately 15" in width). Connector "A" is the smaller of the two and is located on the right side (based on your current positioning). Squeeze the small release tabs in the center of the connector while pulling outward. The connector will release without significant effort. Connector "B" is the larger of the two and is located on the left side (based on your current positioning). Squeeze the small release tabs in the center of the connector while pulling outward. Again, the connector should release with minimal effort.

Step #6 - Remove the Instrument Panel mounting screws. The Instrument Panel is secured using four No. 2 Phillips head machine screws. Again, while lying on your back within the driver's footwell, locate the two screws on each side of the lower Instrument Panel. At the bottom front corners of the Panel, locate a single machine screw on the black frame. The second machine screw for each corner is located within the Speed Control / Trip Computer or Lighting Control Pods. An access hole to allow removal of these fasteners is provided in each Pod. Disconnecting or removing the Pod is not required. With the four fasteners removed, the Instrument Panel is ready for removal.

Step #7 - Dislodge the Instrument Panel from the dash. While lying on your back within the driver's footwell, use your hands to apply force on the rear side of the Instrument Panel attempting to push it towards the steering wheel. It will dislodge without tremendous effort as its just a simple press-fit.

Step #8 - Re-position the Steering Wheel and Remove the Instrument Panel. Release the steering wheel positioning level and pull the steering wheel outward as far as possible. It is not necessary to remove the steering wheel to facilitate Instrument Panel removal. With the Instrument Panel dislodged from the previous step, guide it outward and sideways for complete removal. The Instrument Panel should now be within your arms.

In this case, re-installation is honestly the reverse of removal. Just ensure the Instrument Panel is properly re-fit in the dash prior to installing fasteners. The Instrument Panel dash pad has locator tabs at the front corners, which mate with slots on the lower dash frame. Significant effort is not required to re-install the Instrument Panel into the dash.

6.11.2 - Instrument Panel Electronic Pack ( John Ping,  October 20, 2001 )

The Instrument Panel "Electronic Pack" is mounted to the rear of the panel. As mentioned before, it is a crème colored rectangular shaped plastic module with dimensions of approximately 15" length x 5" width x 2" height. Inspect the two multi-pin female type connectors located on the rear of the pack to ensure / rectify any visible defects such as deformed pins or corrosion. Always use a quality electronics parts cleaner to removed films or dust/dirt from these connectors. No petroleum-based products should be utilized! With the Instrument Panel inverted to allow access to the "microprocessor electronic pack", remove the ten (10) No. 1 Phillips self-tapping screws which are located around the perimeter and connector portion of the module.

With the cover plate removed from the module, the microprocessor board is visible. There are no "owner" repairable items on this board. The microprocessor provides output to the gauges / displays via the use of three "printed circuit board type" ribbon strips. Release each ribbon strip by pulling up on the strip locks on each end of the ribbon. With the locks released, the strip can simply be pulled upward to release. This step should be performed to the other two strips.

The electronics pack can now be disconnected from the Instrument Panel by releasing the two plastic clips at the bottom and pivoting upward on the module to approximately a 90-degree position such the hinges on top will release. Note that the hinges on the module are split to allow separation from the Instrument Panel.

Note: The electronic pack has a specific "speedometer calibration". If replacing this item, ensure the replacement electronic pack is marked with the exact "speedometer calibration" as the original electronic pack or the speedometer indication will be incorrect. The odometer reading is stored within the electronic pack. When installing a replacement pack, the odometer will not readout with the original vehicle mileage.

As with the Instrument Panel, installation is truly the reverse of removal. Ensure the three printed circuit ribbon strips are securely installed on their connectors and the locking devices are in proper position prior to re-installing the rear cover plate.this case, re-installation is honestly the reverse of removal. Just ensure the Instrument Panel is properly re-fit in the dash prior to installing fasteners. The Instrument Panel dash pad has locator tabs at the front corners, which mate with slots on the lower dash frame. Significant effort is not required to re-install the Instrument Panel into the dash.

6.11.3 - Gauge / Warning Light Pack ( John Ping,  October 20, 2001 )

A word of caution, the gauges are precision devices and are easily damaged if handled in a careless manner. Ensure that your work area is clean … including your hands. To access the Instrument Panel gauges, it is necessary to remove the Instrument Panel clear bezel. This step is accomplished by releasing the ten (five top and five bottom) plastic clips located on the gauge pack. With the ten clips removed, carefully separate the two housings.

Support the gauge pack in a manner such that the instruments are not touching any surfaces. With the gauge pack vertically supported, it is now necessary to remove the wood veneer panel. It is attached to the gauge pack with seven No. 1 Phillips head self-tapping screws. Fastener access is from the rear (printed circuit side) with two screws along the top, three screws in the middle section and two screws along the bottom. The Vehicle Condition Monitor (odometer) will release with the veneer panel. Ensure the four-pin black connector is released (pull upward) and the two odometer light bulbs are removed. Carefully separate the veneer panel from the gauge pack. Keep the gauge pack positioned vertically to ensure no instrument damage.

Remove any instrument as desired by first locating the mounting tabs for the affected instrument on the rear of the gauge pack. Press the small tabs to the right and left side of each pin to release the pin. This is precision work … be careful! Each instrument has three pins. The ancillary gauges can be replaced independently, but the speedometer / tachometer is replaced as a single module.

Install the new gauge as desired by pressing the three pins into their circuit board female receivers. Carefully position and re-install the veneer panel using the seven small self-tapping screws. Carefully position and join the clear bezel housing to the gauge pack. It is wise to clean the inside and outside of the clear bezel using a glass cleaning solution prior to re-attachment with the gauge pack.

A quick check for electrical circuit continuity can be performed using a conventional digital multi-meter. Trace out the circuit path from each instrument pin to the printed circuit ribbon strip end. Each circuit should have minimal resistance. Mount the electronic pack to the rear of the gauge pack (hinge and clip mechanism). Carefully mount the three printed circuit ribbon strips to the connectors on the electronic pack. Ensure the ribbon strips are fully seated and the connector locks are properly positioned. Mount the electronic pack rear cover plate and you are finished.

Follow the directions for re-installing the instrument pack into the dash.

Note: If the tachometer fails for no apparent reason, it its possible the inline buffer resistor (approx. 6.8k ohms) between the negative side of the ignition coil and the Instrument Panel has failed (open circuit). All models may not incorporate this design, but absolutely check the wiring schematics to determine if it applies to your vehicle. If this problem occurs on your vehicle, just bypass the original failed resistor and install a new one in the circuit to restore tachometer operation. It's a very simple matter to splice the new resistor circuit into the existing wiring harness near the ignition coil.

Note: The warning lights (tan holders) used on the Instrument Panel are the "long-life type". They will rarely need replacement as they are seldom illuminated. The illumination lights (white holders) on the Instrument Panel (center of the electronic pack) should be inspected (slight twist to the left and pull out) for deterioration (smoking / graying of the inside of the bulb). Replace any suspect bulb prior to re-assembly. The two odometer (VCM) lights at the bottom of the electronic pack (tan holders) are always illuminated and it is prudent to replace these bulbs (or swap with other low priority warning bulbs if replacements are unavailable) prior to re-assembly.

6.12 - VCM Display ( )

Intermittent loss of the Vehicle Condition Monitor display.

The most common cause of this is a failure of the printed circuit solder connections to the transformer which supplies the high voltage to the fluorescent display, especially if a thump to the front top edge of the instrument momentarily brings on the display.

Remove the Instrument panel completely, take off the back, take sensible anti-static precautions remove the small circuit board at the opposite end from the monitor display and you will see the transformer. Examine the pin connections with a magnifying glass as the cracks can be difficult to see re solder and all will be OK.

6.13 - Trip Computer (early models) ( Pete Crosby,  December 4, 2001 )

Don't give that little computer and the Jag engineers too much credit with regard to range.

It seems that the range shown is based strictly upon the amount of fuel the computer thinks is in the tank (based upon the level and NOT based upon fuel usage calculated from injector "on" time) and the currently calculated average fuel economy (which IS calculated based upon miles traveled and injector "on" time). Hint: check your range after filling the car up but before you reset the computer. It will calculate the range based upon the current average MPG and the amount of fuel it decides is in the tank, as read from the level sensor.

Average speed is calculated from engine run time and distance traveled.

Fuel used is calculated from the amount of time the injectors are open (i.e. injector "on" time). This is why dirty injectors or a bad fuel
pressure regulator will cause the computer's calculation of fuel usage to be way off when compared to how much fuel it actuall takes to refill the tank.

Instant fuel economy is calculated using injector "on" time and distance traveled and is recalculated about every 5 seconds.

6.14 - Light ECU troubleshooting ( Bruce Taylor,  December 10, 2001 )

The following info relates to a strange intermittent electrical problem on a 1992 Daimler/VDP

When the fault is present, all of the following happen:

- The audio warning screams continuously (even with the ignition key out!).
- The bulb failure indicator is on (sure, but read on...).
- The radio works fine but the antenna won't go up (or down if it is already up).
- The direction indicators don't work (no clicking, no flashing, left or right).
- The internal and puddle lamps don't come on when you open doors.
- The internal overhead lamp doesn't come on with its switch either, but the map reading lamp works normally.
- The hazard lamps don't work.
- The keyboard illumination doesn't work.
- Everything else seems to work fine!

Sometimes after a few hours of audio screaming, the fault clears itself spontaneously and suddenly all of the above things work normally! Then for no apparent reason the screaming restarts and all the above failures are back again together.

The microprocessor unit (I'll call it the ECU for short, but of course this is not the engine management ECU) is mounted on a vertical bracket at the back of the wiring area behind the passenger side knee bolster. Although the top end is inaccessible it is held by a hook, so it's only necessary to remove the lower 2 self-tapping screws to get the unit out. In addition to torx screws, the ECU cover is secured by 2 rivets with fancy heads to discourage tampering, err, inspection. The screws are quite tight but made of butter, so you may want to push the screwdriver right in to get some bite. Be very careful about this if your screwdriver has a long tip! Some of the hollow screws are just above the internal pc board and the screwdriver could damage traces on the board.

The ECU uses a National Semiconductor COP325 microcontroller. That's an industrial temperature (-40 to +85 deg C) version of the COP425, a 4-bit CMOS microcontroller with 1K ROM that cost about $1 each in the late 1980s. It's a simple, low-density, double-sided pc board with a few ICs and discrete components that would be quite repairable if a schema were available. Unfortunately the makers (AB, of BFM fame) have omitted to stick that on the inside of the top cover!

To access the solder side of the pc board, remove the screws securing the 3 TO220 components to the case and snap out the 6 plastic clips. The leads are long enough to test the open pc board in the car quite conveniently with just an extension to the ground lead as shown in this pic : fuel economy is calculated using injector "on" time and distance traveled and is recalculated about every 5 seconds.

Direction indicators are closed, the wires read about 0.1 ohm to ground at the ECU input. When the inputs are open circuit, a DVM reads about 145 mV. This is probably not a DC level and the indicated voltage may depend on the capacitive load. In my case the voltage fell to near zero when the intermittent fault was present. I don't have the proper factory schematics for my car but I found the wire colour coding of the "typical" schematics in Haynes accurate. The New Zealand M.A.P. manual was also helpful because it indicates connector pin numbers, which Haynes does not, although there appear to be some errors such as B159/B13 crossovers.

The construction quality of this ECU was rather mediocre, the 5v regulator in my unit had been soldered squint and the insulating bush just squashed up instead of entering the hole in the case. The board had been wave soldered and some joints did not look too healthy. There were quite a few solder spatters from the subsequent hand soldering of the connecting wires. Because of the solder mask they did not appear to be causing short circuits, though.

I tested the ECU after resoldering each row and it became OK after doing the row in line with the label "KCE DV-0". There is nothing special in this row (like a high thermal mass connection that can give a dry joint if it's not heated long enough). Since I didn't actually see a defective solder joint I can't be sure that was the cause of the intermittent fault. It's possible there was an internal defect in a component which was cleared by the thermal shock of the resoldering and may reappear in the future.

I wouldn't trust this box in a really critical application, but when it fails the main inconveniences are just the lack of turning indicators and the screaming audio warning, which doesn't stop one getting home.

Anyway the ECU then appeared to be running solid so I boxed it up again, using nice 4BA screws (no longer than 0.2", to keep clear of the pc board) in place of all the original fasteners. These are the ideal size (3.6 mm dia) and preserve the British heritage!

There were many different versions for different models, markets and years. My car is VIN 639732. Within the range VIN 594576 to VIN 648923, from 1990 MY onwards, 4 litre models only, the parts fiche shows that USA vehicles were fitted with DBC4968, Canada/Middle-East/Taiwan with DBC4967 and other countries (including mine) with DBC4966. The design changed again from VIN 648924.

A UK Jaguar parts supplier lists the cost of a replacement DBC4966 as GBP 740. Adding shipping and local tax, that is 25% of what we paid in November 2000 for the entire car!

6.15 - Interior Light door switch ( Dave Lockensgard,  December 21, 2001 )

The interior lights and the door open warning light are triggered by a microswitch that is part of the door latch mechanism. Different from the normal push-button arrangement at the door hinge that is usually used. The switch provides a ground signal to the cpu that turns on the lights and the warning.

The problem could be in the switch or in the wiring. To test the switch, take off the door panel and find the connector going up to the door lock. Check the two wires for continuity in the door open and door closed position. If that work O.K., trace the wiring back to the car's interior, looking for a break. Sometimes the wires near the hinge will break due to flexing. It's helpful to have a wiring diagram.

If the switch is bad, you have to remove the latch mechanism to replace it. You might invest in the Haynes manual for the car if it comes to that.

6.16 - Fuel Filler Door Release ( Jim Moore,  December 25, 2001 )

If the fuel filler door release stops working you can still use the boot lever to open and procrastinate until you are really tired of opening the boot everytime you need to fill up...

To remove the unit loosen the clamps on the filler extension, and the vent hose(at rear of filler extension). Pull off the drain hoses (1 at rubber cover, 1 at solenoid). Pull the extension out the top through the rubber.

From inside trunk, take out the 4 bolts holding the solenoid unit from the bottom. Unplug it and take it out of the car. Take out the 6 small phillips head screws on top and remove the solenoid and electrical unit from the plastic housing. Sticking out the end is a pressure switch.

Carefully remove the foam cover and lift up the plastic contact strip. You will see the 2 brass colored contacts under it. which can be covered with carbon from arcing. Clean them up (scrape with a knife blade) also clean between them.

Next clean the contact secton of the plastic strip (has a metal section in the center that contacts the brass strips when pushed down).

Before reassembling the solenoid unit, plug it into the car and test it by pushing down on the contact plastic section with you finger. Due to wear, it may take more pressure than could be asserted with the foam piece installed. You can put some silicon sealant on top of the plastic strip and set a small washer the size of the contact section into it, did not use the foam piece.

Now the plunger that is activated when pushing down on the filler cover sits on the washer and has no problem making the preasure switch activate.

Reistall everything (reverse of removal) and it should work perfectly if the inline fuse is not blowing, this is probably the problem. If the fuse is blowing it is probably the soleniod itself.

6.17 - Seat Heaters ( Alan Heartfield,  February 6, 2003 )

The seat bottom is easily removed by removing the single phillips screw in the front of the seat. Lower the seat back to at least the half way back position. The seat cushion can then be lifted up, front first. The red connector for the switch on the side of the seat cushion must be disconnected first. To disconnect these connectors, squeeze the two protrusions on the sides of the connector, and pull the plug and socket apart. The seat can now be raised to about 45 degrees, giving clear access to the motors and heater connectors.

There are two heaters in the seat. One in the cushion and one in the back. They are wired in series, so if either heater quits, neither will work.

Remove the connectors from their clips and disconnect the ones that go to the seat cushion. There will be another red one for the cushion heater, a yellow one for the back heater and a green one and a black one. The seat cushion can now be removed from the car.

Now is a good time to clean up under the seat and make sure the motors are all running freely. I put some dry graphite lubricant on the actuating rod threads.

Turn on the car ignition and the seat heater switch. Check for voltage at the red connector for the seat heater at the end that remains in the car. There should be full battery voltage here. If not, then you have found the problem.

Jumper between the two pins on the yellow connector and use a good ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the pins on the red connector for the seat heater. There should be approximately 2 ohms. If so, then the problem is with the seat back heater. This was my case, so I now had to access that heater.

First remove the small phillips screws on each side of the seat back. On the left side of the seat is a larger phillips screw holding a plastic hole plug. Remove this also. Get into the back seat of the car and pull down and back on the seat back with the map pocket in it. The whole back of the seat will come off, exposing the motor and heater wiring.

Now remove the clips so the seat front cover can be carefully peeled off towards the front of the car. I also released the two lower clips holding the diaphragm. As the seat cover comes off, you will find a couple of green bungee cords that keep the cover taut. Release the one on the left from the rail at the lower rear of the seat back.

The seat cover does not have to be entirely removed. Just loosen the frontleft side until it can be lifted up sufficiently to see the heater. Two black wires feed the heat from the bottom, centre, front of the seat back. There is a layer of cheesecloth covering the seat heater grid.

In my case, a section of the cheesecloth was charred about 3" up from the seat back bottom. I cut a slit in the cheesecloth so it could be peeled back, and found the connection between the black wire and the grid had melted. I cut away the damaged wiring on both sides of the problem area, and using crimp connectors and a short length of SXL wire, bonded them together again. A better choice would have been some teflon wire. SXL is a high temperature wire with an insulation that will not support combustion. I had some on hand, but no teflon wire. When crimping, do not use the cheap style of crimper that clamps the crimp between two arcs cut in the tool. Use a crimper that has an arc and an opposing dimple such as the Thomas and Betts tool. Otherwise, cold flow will not occur and the crimp will just get hot and you will have the same problem all over again. Alternatively, solder the connection, which is what Jaguar (Recaro) did.

Test, reassemble, and toast some buns.

6.2 - Check Engine Light ( Brian Neish,  June 30, 2003 )

After the fault has been corrected, the 'Check Engine' light must be reset by :-

a) Removing battery NEGATIVE lead for about 15 - 30 seconds (but this requires you to re-input the radio security code)

b) With the ignition 'ON', removing the instrument pack 5 amp fuse (# 5 or #6 in the centre fuse block) and when gauge needles 'drop' waiting a further 10 or 15 seconds for the needles to drop once more before replacing the fuse (obviates the need to re-input radio security code)

c) On pre-1992 cars (theoretically), driving the car faster than 19 mph. [Some have reported this not to be the case and must resort to a) or b) above]

If the fault has not been corrected, the 'Check Engine' light will remain illuminated the next time the car is started / driven.

To see code:-

Early cars (pre-1990) - Stop engine by turning key to Position II - do NOT turn key to 'OFF' (The computer does not store codes in memory for display)

Later cars (1990 and subsequent) - Turn ignition 'OFF', wait for 5 seconds

All cars - Turn ignition back on DO NOT START ENGINE Push VCM button and you will see code. [But see 6.1 above]

6.3 - Distributor Position ( )

There is a Jag tool to set the distributor correctly, if you forgot to mark it when you took it off, but you can approximate the setting. Set engine on TDC with the edge of the marked tooth of the crank pulley just at the timing arm on the Right edge of engine. Then move the distributor until the Right edge of the end of rotor is approx. 1/16 in from the edge of the gap in the distributor body.

6.4 - Lamp Modules ( )

6.4.1 - Overview ( )

The lamp modules give problems on all older XJ40s.

The first thing to note is that these modules' concern is not only monitoring bulb failures, but also switching of the bulbs themselves. Each lamp module gets signals from the various devices like headlamp switch, brake light switch, indicator switch etc. These signals trigger relays in the modules, which switch voltage to the bulbs.

An in-built circuit checks the resistance of the bulbs, if anything abnormal is measured, it grounds one of the lines to the VCM and the warning signal in the instrument panel lights up.

Two different bulb failure signals are delivered by each module:

- Indicator failure (pink)
- all others (pink/grey).

When the VCM receives the indicator failure signal it changes the frequency of the audible signal, and flashing arrow on the dash when the indicators are working.

6.4.2 - Quick Check List ( Brett Gadzinsky,  )

Bulb Failure Modules (BFMs) have a reputation of maddening failures on XJ40s, but there are things to check before jumping in replacing or repairing the modules.

If you have a bulb fail alarm, check all the bulbs, the headlights, high and low beams, and driving lights, the turn signal, side marker, brake lights, backup lights, front and rear fog lights. Even if you don't have front fog lights, the shorting plug needs to be in the connector for the fog lights.

Its best to use plated base bulbs, not brass base bulbs, as the sockets are plated, and using dissimilar metals in a hot moist environment is sure to cause corrosion problems over time. The brand of the bulbs is not important, but the wattage is.

On some cars, the bulbs can get loose in their sockets. Make sure the prongs at the bottom are forcing the bulbs lightly into their sockets.

If all the bulbs are good, and they are all working, and you still have the alarm, you need to remove the bulb fail modules from the car and resolder the bad solder joints inside.

6.4.3 - Module Repairs ( Brett Gadzinsky,  December 15, 2001 )

The modules are at each corner of the car, close to the lights. Trace the wires from the lights to the module. The modules have a metal cover over a plastic base plate. You need to straighten the bent tabs on the cover, then pull the cover off.

Inside you will find a main board, and maybe a smaller sub board that mounts on its connectors. The main board is held onto the base by four Phillips head screws at each corner. Remove the screws and then the main board.
Solder problem spots are the connectors between the sub board and the main solder both the main board pins and the sub board pins. A very close inspection of the solder joints may show rings around the joint where the solder cracked. Also resolder the relay joints on the main board.

Most of the joints on the little parts will be ok. Also check the relays inside...they operate the lights. If the module looks dirty inside, the relay contacts may also be dirty, and that will cause problems also.

The newer the car, the less problems you are likely to have inside the bulb fail modules.

6.5 - Installing Front Fog Lamps ( )

1. The connectors are behind the bumper on either side. Pop out the connector unplug the male end. Open up the connector, push out the male contacts, remove the resistor that is soldered between the two contacts. Solder a wire to each of the male connectors and reinstall into the housing. The wires should be about a foot long. You can shorten them after you install the lights.

2. Install the lights using the threaded inserts on the underside of the bumper (Not all models have these). You may have to make a pair of brackets, depending upon your lights.

3. Connect the wires. Use red/ orange as hot lead, black as ground.

4. Remove the screw holding the two halves of the light switch instrument panel. There are three tabs that hold the board into the housing. Depress the tabs and drop the board down.

There is a blank dummy panel between the flasher and rear fog lamp. Remove the panel. If you don't have a toggle "cover" for another lamp, and don't use the rear fog light, then pull the rear cover toggle upwards and off the board, move it over to the center spot, and replace the rear spot with the blank. Reinstall the board and cover.

You now have a pair of fog lamps up front that work only with the low beam headlights. They will not light up with the high beams.
newer the car, the less problems you are likely to have inside the bulb fail modules.

6.6 - Radios ( Brett Gadzinsky,  December 12, 2001 )

The 1988 to 1996? XJ40 cars had three different radios in the U.S.

- early (CB style) to 1990
- early CD version that included the woofers under the rear seat, and the later
- CD style radio that dropped the woofers under the rear seat.

The radios with the woofers under the rear seat have restrictions inside the radio that limits the audio to the door speakers to mids and highs only. The woofers get lows only.

There were a few speaker setups :

- the base model cars had 3.5 inch speakers in the doors high up
- the VDP had 4 inch speakers lower in the doors.
- the VDP also may have had the bigger 5-1/4 inch woofers under the rear seat, up from the standard 4 inch ones.

Speaker wiring is non standard. The front and back door speakers share a common (ungrounded) wire, and the system is set up so when fading to front or rear, the one speaker gets the total output power (24 watts rms).

The early (CB) style radios hold up well if kept dry, all the radios have problems getting wet from clogged drains in the climate control system.

Typical problems include solder problems on the output chips on the audio amp board (the one that has the fins), frequency display light bulbs burnt out (8 volt bulbs), missing segments on the display, buttons that don't work, and tape drive belts worn out.

The display can most times be fixed by touching up the solder at the film type connector close to the frequency display and the film connector on the main board. Sometimes the display goes bad and the liquid leaks out,or the connections to the LCD glass get rust on them from the radio getting wet.

Buttons that don't work can be the solder dots that connect things on the film on the back of the front panel, or bad button switches. Some electronics stores have the switches.

Most of these radios have adjustments on the side of the radio for the squelch and sensitivity during CB reception. Normal operation should have the radio quiet unless someone close is using a CB.

The sound of this setup can be improved quite a bit by changing out the 4 inch woofers under the rear seat to the 5-1/4 ones (DBC-10597), and changing out the very low quality door speakers to bigger and better speakers. Its possible to fit at least 4 inch speakers instead of the 3.5 inch speakers. The bigger speakers (DBC-10597) just snap in, no screws, no connector changes, look good with new grills included.

The CD style radios have problems with the frequency displays going bad, keep them dry ! They also seem to have problems blowing out parts and chips. The CD player in the trunk can be replaced by an Alpine CHM 620s, or that can be fit if you did not get one with the car. See 6.6.1 below

6.6.1 - Adding a CD Player, pre wired 1990+ ( Martin Briscoe / Christopher Pavlik,  December 3, 2001 )

Alpine CD Changer mounted in the boot

Cover some cardboard with matching material for factory look

Which changer to use ?

Cars which have the CD button on the radio are pre wired to take a changer in the trunk. Those without the CD button, 1986 - 1990, can use an "RF Modulated" CD Changer that plays through the radio is. 98 and up X308 must used a Jaguar supplied changer which comes with a covered panel.

Cars which have the (MS Bus) 8 pin DIN lead can accept the Alpine CHMS 620 without any problems, it is a direct plug-in and works well most listers have gone for this (Alpine apparently make the Changer supplied by Jaguar). The Alpine changer can be purchased from electronic stores for well under $ 300.

Probably most other Alpines with this plug will work too as Jos Raven reports that an Alpine 5960 & a 5952 worked in his '92 xj40 and his '95 x300 without an adapter

Cars that do not have the MS Bus require an adaptor, when in doubt look for the lead in the trunk and check to see if it is the 8 pin DIN. The cable has been found in a number of places :

1. In the forward right corner of the trunk, behind the trim panel.
2. Behind the front trim on the left hand side.
3. Coiled up behind the arial.
4. Behind the spare wheel

If your car didn't come whith the 8 pin conenctor, an ALPIL adapter is needed to get the Alpine CHM-S620 to work.

Jos reported that he needed the 4913 adaptor for connecting the 5962 & 5952 Alpines to the Alpine TDM-7531R Radio. This type has the 8-pin Din socket but has 2 separate RCA audio inputs as well which is is where the adaptor comes in.The CD style radios have problems with the frequency displays going bad, keep them dry ! They also seem to have problems blowing out parts and chips. The CD player in the trunk can be replaced by an Alpine CHM 620s, or that can be fit if you did not get one with the car. See 6.6.1 below


The brackets that come with the Alpine don't match with the mounting holes provided in the underside of the trunk lip above the battery (factory units mount there).

Options include:
1. Mount vertically (with the cartridge door facing up) on the 'shelf' at the right side of the trunk.

2. Mount directly above the battery, this would keep it somewhat protected from being banged about by luggage or doused with rain when the trunk is opened

3. Mount on one of the shelves using velcro - advantages: quick to do & makes the changer easy to remove when parked in high risk areas, my car has the tool box under the lid so no room at the top. disadvantages: more likely to get knocked, doesnt look so good.

4. and probably the best: - Top of trunk. advantages - solid fixing, rain wont get on it, unlikely to be bumped. disadvantages:- more work, people with tool kits here wont have room.

4a. Jos shows in the picture opposite that the 'Top of trunk' fixing need not be ruled out by the presence of a toolbox, as the changer can be mounted below this.

Mounting at the top of the trunk (by Christopher Pavlik)

I put all of the mounting hardware (including "L" brackets and plastic mounting plates) together attached it to the changer. I then removed the felt like insulation from under the boot lid. to do this, I removed the spare tire (which needed to come out anyway so I could drill the pilot holes).

Holding the Changer up in the position that I wanted it in, I used a fine point magic marker (A Sharpie) to mark where I wanted the holes. At this point I inserted my finger between the panels to make sure where I was going to drill would not come through the exterior panels on the car or interfere with anything else. All was good, so I drilled pilot holes for the sheet metal mounting screws. As I was mounting the plastic mounting plates, I noticed the one side partially covered one of the holes with a beveled edge. this would have caused the plastic mounting plate to sit on an angle when I screwed it down, so I marked the plastic plate with a magic marker.

I then used a grinder to shave some plastic off the edge on the mounting plate (enough so it fit flush against the metal. Next, I screwed the plastic mounting plates on and put the insulation back up (after cutting holes so the mounting crews would go through). mounted the "L" brackets attached to the CD changer next. Plugged in the DIN Connector put back the tire and all the rest of the "junk" I keep in the boot normally.

After thinking about it, I could have gotten a piece of 1/4 inch lexan or some other plastic, and mounted the Alpine hardware to this and then used the factory mounting holes on the lexan. I am happy with the way it turned out though and it looks very professionally done.

6.6.2 - Troubleshooting ( )

The LCD display only showing partial characters

Where the LCD panel connects inside the front panel there is a row of soldered connectors. Reflow all these solder joints.

Channels cutting out intermittently

I touched up all the solder joints on the power amp portion of the radio -- that's the circuit board on the top side of the radio, just inside the metal case.

6.6.4 - Electric Antenna Mast ( all models ) ( Gregory Wells, Coventry West,  )

It is possible to replace the antenna mast on 1988 and later Jaguar sedans, so long as the mast is the only problem (it is not unknown for the motors to go bad). And the replacement can usually be accomplished from outside the car with nothing more than a wrench.

The antenna mast is held into the antenna motor assembly by a ferrule nut at the base of the mast on top of the rear fender. Undo this nut and then have someone turn the radio on. As the antenna or cord is pushed up, simply continue to pull and it will come out. While the mast or cord is being ejected, note which direction the cord's teeth point.

Compare the length of the cord from the old mast to the length of the cord on the new mast. They should be very close in length. If the old mast is much shorter, there is the possibility that a length of cord has broken off and is still in the antenna assembly. If this is the case, the assembly has to be dismantled to remove the piece of cord, as the reel only has enough space for one antenna's length of cord.

With the radio still on and the antenna motor still in the extended position, insert the tip on the new mast's cord as far as possible into the hole, making certain to point the teeth in the same direction as the old mast's cord. Have someone turn the radio off and if you have the new mast's cord inserted far enough into the antenna, it will begin to be reeled in. Don't worry if the antenna doesn't go all the way down in one cycle. Just tighten the ferrule nut to retain the new mast and cycle the radio on and off a couple of more times and the antenna should seat properly when off.

6.6.5 - Security Code ( )

The CD radios have a security code needed after power is removed from the radio. You may be able to get the code from the dealers if you have whatever info they or radio serial number. There is also a way around not having the code.... the code was supposed to be on a paper sticker under the hood.

6.6.6 - Adding an FM CD Changer, 1988-1990 cars ( John Ping,  February 1, 2002 )

A few words on the RF Changers ...

these are certainly not second-rate or poor quality changers. The new units ( I choose a Sony model.) are micro-processor controlled. The sound quality is excellent as the frequency response is 20 to 20k hertz and its very clean. There is no radio static as you utilize a open FM frequency in your locale. Its not a perfect setup, like a factory unit, but its an excellent compromise. The price for a quality unit is around $200. has about the best selection, price and service that I've seen.

If you think this is a reasonable option for you (after reading the installation procedure below), take your time a pick a good model. It should be able to play conventional CDs, CDRs and CD-RWs. It should be capable of vertical mounting and have a "built-in" FM modulator. Make sure the model has output adjustments for matching the CD Changer and radio sound levels. Last, but definitely not least, make sure the model has at least ten or more pre-set frequency inputs. This is really helpful if you have a lot of FM stations in your area ... I was able to find two open frequency slots.

Installation Procedure

Mounting the CD Changer:

1) The trunk of an XJ40 is the prime location. In fact, it will mount nicely slightly above the shelf on the power antenna side of the trunk. For this type of mount, the Changer is positioned vertically (make sure the adjustments on the Changer correspond to vertical mounting). Contemporary Changers are not case grounded so you do not need to find a metal mounting point. Actually, the molded carpeting is rigid enough for this purpose as Changers are light weights. You can even say that it acts as a "pre-suspension" to the precision suspension system contained within the Changer.

2) Install the mounting brackets which came with the unit to the Changer. Position the Changer about an inch or so above the shelf and mark the location of the mounting holes on the carpet with a ink marker. Set the Changer aside and, while using an awl with a sharp point, create the number of necessary mounting holes in the carpet.

3) Remove the carpet installation screw and pull back the carpet sufficiently to provide working area for your hands. Using the provided sheet metal screws attach the Changer to the carpet. This is a weak mount, but it will hold the Changer until you can install speed nuts (sheet metal nuts) on the back side of the carpet. Fit the necessary number of speed nuts and tighten the screws securely. To protect components behind the carpet from the sharp edge of the sheet metal screws (and your hands during any future maintenance), cut the necessary number of pieces from 1/8" clear tubing and slip them over the screw ends.

4) Re-position the carpet with the Changer installed and the Changer mounting is complete.

Powering the CD Changer:

1) The trunk is an excellent location for getting the necessary power supply for the Changer. All Changers typically need two 12 VDC supplies. The first power supply needs to be "hot" at all times. This is because the Changers have a memory when off and draw very low current to maintain this feature. Don't worry about battery drain ... its in the milli-amp or lower range. The second power supply needs to be activated with the ignition "ON". This is the supply that provides power to the Changer when you turn it on. Lastly, you need a circuit ground ... lots of quality grounding points in the trunk area.

2) The power supplies for the Changer will originate from the opposite side of the trunk. You could provide your supplies from the power antenna relays behind the Changer, but there is more room on the opposite side of the trunk to make the connections and add the requisite power relay. As before, remove the carpet mounting screw from the fuel tank filler side of the trunk. Best to remove the tail light assembly cover to provide more access. You need more room in this area than was necessary for mounting the Changer.

3) Locate the "auxiliary relay mount (electrical socket)" which is positioned slightly above and to the left of the Anti-Lock Brake System ECU. At least on a 90 XJ6, the ABS ECU is the device you will see in front of you. The relatively large black plastic device (on each side of the trunk) is a HVAC component designed as a ventilation exhauster (check valve). If there is no relay (for some other purpose) inserted into the socket, the power connections will be very easy. If a relay exists, you will need to splice into the wiring.

4) Assuming no relay was found in the auxiliary relay mount, use a simple voltmeter to probe the socket and determine the "continuously hot" 12 VDC lead. If you have a relay handy as a reference, it would be Pin #30. Regardless, using the voltmeter will find it.

5) Next, turn the ignition switch to the ON position and probe the socket to locate the "ignition hot" 12 VDC lead. It should be Pin #86. Note that both power supplies will be slightly higher voltage (13.5 to 14.0 volts) with the engine running. Turn the engine off after locating the voltage point.

6) After locating the two power supplies, its necessary to fabricate a couple of power supply leads. Install a 1/4" male spade type solderless connector to the end of an approximately 3' length of 18 gauge multi-strand copper wire and insert it into the "continuously hot" female connection on the relay socket. Be careful not to "short" the continuously hot lead. Likewise, install another 1/4" male spade type solderless connector to the end of an approximately 3' length of 18 gauge multi-strand copper wire and insert it into the "ignition hot" female conne joints. The resultant connection will be super strong ... and who hasn't pulled on a wire before in an attempt to remove it? It takes a bit longer to complete the wiring, but the finished product is far better than you will get at any automotive electronics shop. Secondly, use insulators (heat shrinkable tubing or pre-form insulators) on these connections. It will protect the connection from unwanted electrical contact plus its a sign of true professional installation. Lastly, ensure the wires are "bundled" together as a cable when routing using tie-wraps or black electrical tape.

7) Now that you have the power supply leads in hand, its necessary to mount an interposing relay to feed the CD Changer when the ignition is turned "ON". Based on the expected current draw of the Changer (approximately 1 amp), the use of an interposing relay is not absolutely necessary, but its always a good idea to get power loads off the ignition switch. Since its very easy to fabricate, its best to install this device. Use a typical 12 VDC automotive type cube relay ... one with a built-in tab for mounting is great. Slightly in front of the ventilation exhauster, there is an open area that lends itself well for installing this relay. There is a metal tab with a 1/4" hole at the base of the shelf (in front of the exhauster) that works great for mounting the relay. Mount the relay to the tab in the inverted position (pins up).

NOTE: Another very nice professional touch is to install a relay coil diode "reverse biased" across the relay coil input (# 86) and output (# 85). Its not absolutely required but all other relays in your Jaguar have this feature to mitigate control system voltage spikes. You may even be able to purchase a relay with this feature.

8) Using the continuous hot lead, install a fuse (to serve as master circuit protection) inline with the conductor. Don't use a fuse rated higher than 5 amp or less than 3 amp. Any type of inline fuse is okay. Solder the splice and insulate.

9) Using the ignition hot lead, install a fuse (to serve as sub-circuit protection) inline with the conductor. Don't use a fuse rated higher than 3 amp or less than 2 amp. Any type of inline fuse is okay. Solder the splice and insulate.

10) On the continuous hot lead downstream of the inline fuse, splice in another conductor (about 10' length of 18 gauge). This conductor will feed continuous 12 VDC to the Changer. Solder the splice and insulate.

11) Install a 1/4" female spade type solderless connector to the end of the continuous hot lead down stream of the previous splice. Solder the connection and insulate. Insert on to Pin # 30 (power input point) of the previously installed relay.

12) Install a 1/4" female spade type solderless connector to the end of the ignition hot lead down stream of the inline fuse. Solder the connection and insulate. Insert on to Pin # 86 (control power input point) of the previously installed relay.

NOTE: For Steps 11 and 12, cut the conductors to length before installing the female spade type connectors. Neatly bundle these two leads and position this cable behind the ABS ECU.

13) Install a 1/4" female spade type solderless connector to a 10' length of 18 gauge wire. Solder the connection and insulate. This lead is the relay output to the CD Changer. Insert on Pin # 87 (power output point) of the previously installed relay.

14) Install a 1/4" female spade type solderless connector to a 3' length of 18 gauge wire. Solder the connection and insulate. This lead will serve as the relay control power output (ground). Insert on Pin # 85 (control power output point) of the previously installed relay.

15) A quality chassis ground is located slightly to the left of the black ventilation exhauster. Cut the relay ground lead (Step 14) to length and install a solderless type 1/4" ring lug to the lead. Solder the connection and insulate (though insulation isn't actually required for this ground).

16) Carefully arrange all wiring to ensure a professional installation.

17) Bundle the two power outputs (continuous hot and ignition hot) so they can be routed across the trunk to the CD Changer.

18) Re-install the molded carpet (don't forget the mounting screw and tail light cover plate from Step 2).

19) Remove the spare tire and rear bulkhead carpet ... no screws on this carpet.

20) With the carpet removed, note that the fuel tank is directly in front of you. Also note that electrical cables are routed at the base of the tank ... this will be the same route used to provide the power supplies to the Changer. Route the two conductors securely to the opposite side of the trunk.

21) Fabricate a ground lead for the Changer using a 5' length of 18 gauge. Install a large (3/8") ring lug to the lead. Solder the connection and insulate (though insulation isn't actually required for this ground). Using one of the three spare tire jack mounting points, securely fasten the ground lead.

22) Bundle the two power leads and ground lead to the far right side of the fuel tank. Ensure you have several extra feet of conductor length so that proper connections to the power harness supplied with the Changer can be made. Do not make the power connections to the Changer at this time.

23) If you want to route signal and control cables for the Changer at this time, leave the rear bulkhead carpet off. Otherwise, go ahead and re-install the carpet.

Routing CD Changer Control and Signal Cables:

NOTE: The control cable for these types of Changers is typically a round 8 conductor type ... about 3/16" in diameter. The signal cable is really a modified small FM antenna cable ... about 1/8" in diameter. Both cables are very long (18' to 20') since you must route them from the trunk to the back of the radio (antenna) and front of the console (controller). Definitely bundle these cables together as you route them.

1) Start the process by removing the rear seat and back rest. Its an amazingly simple task ... remove the two screws (one on each side) at the front of the seat and pull the seat forward to remove it. Likewise the rear back rest is easy. Just remove the four mounting screws (two on each side) and lift up on the bottom of the cushion to dislodge the upper clips. Remove both the seat and back rest from the car to provide working access. Haynes has a good description on this task.

2) From inside the car, facing rearward, remove the upper left sound deadening material clip (near the seat belt reel). It unscrews using the flat tip of a screwdriver to start it, then your fingers.

3) Carefully peel back the black sound deadening material and you will uncover a small rectangular access port (approximately 1.5" x 3"). It is sealed and riveted to the rear bulkhead. This bulkhead cover will be the cable egress.

4) Drill out the two 1/8" rivets on the top and bottom of the plate (with a 1/8" drill). Wedge a flat screwdriver between the cover and bulkhead and free the cover from the pliable sealant.

5) With a 3' length section of rigid wire (fish tape), connect a 6' length piece of strong string to the end of the wire. Insert the wire through the bulkhead port angling towards the left side of the fuel tank. Have a helper pull the wire into the trunk area when it becomes visible.

6) Using the ends of the control and signal cables which connect to the Changer, attach the string to the cable ends. Carefully pull the cables through the bulkhead port and around the tank into the trunk area using the attached string. Route these cables to the Changer and attach them to their respective ports on the Changer.

NOTE: At this point, power has not be connected to the Changer so there is no concern for shorting the signal or control cables.

7) Position the control and signal cables behind the molded carpet at the Changer so that they are out-of-sight. Pull about 6" of extra cable so that there is no binding or tension on them. Bundle and secure as necessary.

8) From within the rear seat area, tape the twin cables where they go through the bulkhead port for protection from possible chaffing on the metal. Using duct tape or something similar, tape over the bulkhead port opening with the installed cables installed.

9) Route the control and signal cables along with the existing electrical cable down to the base of the seating area. The existing electrical cable will enter a body channel and continue forward. At the point where this cable enters the channel, branch off with the control and signal cables.

10) Continue routing the control and signal cables to the left front edge of the rear seat. Carefully peel back the carpet and position the cables underneath for protection. Leave the twin cables on the floor board area.

11) Carefully re-position the black sound deadening material and re-attach the mounting clip (Step 3). Ensure all sound deadening material and carpet is properly re-positioned. Install the back rest onto the four upper clips (Step 1) and press down (its easier with a helper). Re-attach the four lower mounting screws. Install the seat bottom under the back rest bottom (its easier with a helper) and re-attach the two lower mounting screws. Don't forget the seat belts when installing the seats.

12) Pull up the rear foot area carpet and sound deadening material. Route the twin cables toward the drive shaft tunnel (between the tunnel and the passenger seat (for LHD cars). Carefully tuck the cables under the sound deadening material and carpet stopping just in front of the passenger seat.

Installing the Control Unit and Antenna Relay Box:

NOTE: Remove the negative battery cable at this point! Further work involves tight access around sensitive electronic components. Do not take a chance on shorting some components ... remove battery power.

1) Remove the passenger side (for LHD cars) electronic and relay rack cover and remove the metal shield. Lots of push pins and screws involved but they are all accessible. Haynes can help here.

2) Remove the passenger footwell ventilation duct by pulling it back from the Climate Control Housing and wiggling it forward. This step is necessary to provide an access hole for the signal cable antenna relay box.

3) Remove the two center console screws securing the cigarette lighter and ash tray. Pull out the component and disconnect the electrical connector from the wiring harness.

4) Carefully pry up the gear shift outer bezel. Carefully pry off the gear shift cover. Pull up the handbrake and place the gear selector in Drive.

5) Working from the ash tray area, remove the two nylon wing nuts from the base of the "ski slope". Carefully lift the ski slope and free it from the upper mounts.

NOTE: Haynes has good detail on Steps 3 through 5 ... nonetheless, its a bit of a pain if the previous owner has messed up the original component locating / securing tabs.

6) Remove the six Climate Control and Radio panel mounting screws (easily accessible). Carefully pull outward on the panel and remove it. You will need to wiggle it at the top and at the gear shifter to clear the unit.

7) Disconnect the Climate Control panel cable on the right side and lay the entire assembly to the left side (drivers side).

8) Disconnect the radio antenna from its "Motorola" type connector on the back of the radio.

9) From the passenger footwell, route the antenna signal cable through the opening provided in Step 2. Depending upon the actual size of the relay box, it could be a tight squeeze. Plug the existing antenna cable into the relay box. Plug the relay box output into the radio antenna input. Position the relay box to the far left side of the Climate Control / Radio cavity to ensure it does not interfere during re-installation of the panel.

10) Reconnect the Climate Control cable removed in Step 7 and re-install the Climate Control / Radio panel. When the panel is nearly in place, there will be some minor resistance from the flexing of the cables. Lightly tighten the six screws during re-installation and then make a final pass to secure them.

11) Carefully re-attach the ski slope starting at the upper mounts and pivoting the unit in place. Re-attach the two lower nylon wing nuts removed in Step 5.

NOTE: There should be some locating washers above the nylon mount and the bottom of the ski slope for the wing nuts. These washers locate the fork mounts for the ash tray. If they were not originally there, just use four or five small 1/4" flat washers on each mount.

12) Ensure no electrical connections are interfering with the installation of the ash tray or binding on the ski slope. Re-attach the cigarette lighter electrical connector and carefully place the ash tray assembly in the cavity. Re-install the two rear ash tray mounting screws.

13) Carefully re-attach the gear shift cover. Carefully re-attach the gear shift outer bezel. Release the handbrake and place the gear selector in Park.

14) Any excess signal cable should be coiled and hidden behind (or underneath) the center tunnel upholstery.

15) Route the control cable and head unit to a convenient location on the center console. Its a personal choice, but I mounted mine slightly above the Climate Control Panel on the surround upholstery using double sided tape provided with the Changer.

16) Any excess control cable should be coiled and hidden behind (or underneath) the center tunnel upholstery.

17) Re-attach the passenger footwell ventilation duct by initially slipping the duct over the Climate Control output duct and wiggling the footwell ventilation duct into place. It mounts with a slip fit clip on the rear and a tab on the right side.

18) Re-install the electronic and relay rack metal shield.

19) Re-install the passenger footwell upholstery panel.

20) Re-connect the negative battery cable.

Final Power Up Sequence for the CD Changer:

1) From the trunk area, install the power wiring harness provided with the Changer. Route this cable along with the control and signal cable up and behind the molded carpeting to get it out-of-sight. Using about a 1' section of 3/8" split cable protector is a nice professional touch as it securely bundles all cables and adds a finished touch.

2) Connect the continuous hot lead with the its appropriate input to the Changer. Solder and insulate this connection. Ensure the inline fuse provided with the Changer for this power source is also installed in the circuit.

3) Connect the ignition hot lead with the its appropriate input to the Changer. Solder and insulate this connection. Ensure the inline fuse provided with the Changer for this power source is also installed in the circuit.

4) Connect the ground lead with its appropriate input to the Changer. Solder and insulate as usual.

5) Bundle and re-position these conductors behind the molded carpet at the base of the fuel tank.

6) Re-install the rear bulkhead carpet and spare tire.


NOTE: Be sure to carefully read the operating instructions for your CD Changer before you use it. Lots of features built into a small package.

6.6.7 - XJ40 Speaker Replacement ( John Ping,  July 7, 2002 )

This article will cover the replacement of door and rear foot well speakers. The audio system used in the XJ40 line is reasonably competent. Its certainly not top-of-the-line by contemporary standards, but it can account for itself quite well when in good operating condition and teamed with a CD Changer in the boot (either a standard Changer or a RF Modulated type). The head unit is generally quite reliable, but the speakers are marginal in their performance.

At some point in time, an owner will choose to replace the OEM speakers in an effort to enhance audio performance or simply because one or more of the original speakers have failed. The actual speaker replacement work is very straightforward and can certainly be accomplished by the average owner. The actual door inner panels are slightly different on base versus Vanden Plas models, but not to a degree causing significant difficulty. This article is written based on a base XJ40 model.

Replacement of Front and Rear Door Speakers

Required Tools:

#2 Phillips Screwdriver (magnetic tip is useful)
9 mm Nut Driver
8” or 10” Flat Tip Screwdriver
Small awl or other sharp pointed instrument
Soldering Iron w/solder or 8 to 10 small wire butt splices
8 to 10 small machine screws -- #8 x ¾” or equivalent 8 to 10 small machine screw nuts & flat washers to match
Thread locking compound “Loctite” (optional)
6” wooden dowel of ½” diameter to be used as a drift
Small mallet or hammer

1) Whenever you are attempting to a remove door panel to gain access to the speaker, or any other electrical component, absolutely disconnect the negative battery cable. Battery power is supplied to each door window motor and it’s always prudent to de-energize these circuits before you attempt any panel work.

2) XJ40 door inner panels (front or rear) are comprised of an upper and lower section, which interface to provide complete inner door coverage. Neither panel is difficult to remove nor are any specialized tools required.

3) Remove the Upper Inner Door Panels as follows:

It’s a good idea to store all the removed parts and screws in the adjacent foot well for safekeeping and easy access when you are putting everything back together.

a) Using a small awl (or equivalent), remove the small “square” plastic cover for the inner door lock release mechanism (upper right side when facing inner side of door). It pivots towards the front of the car.

b) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the inner door lock release mechanism plastic / chrome escutcheon. It’s held in place by a single machine screw. Pull out on the door lock release mechanism and the escutcheon is easily removed.

c) Using both hands, pull out on the wood veneer panel at the inner door lock release mechanism to provide clearance and slide the panel towards the front of the car. The panel is secured on the left side by slip-in clips and they release easily.

d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two sheet metal screws on the left side. For the front doors only, lift the bottom of the rubber ventilation boot at the front edge of the door and remove the sheet metal screw. Additionally, for the front door only, use the large flat screwdriver as a lever to ease out the single “fir tree” type press-fit connector. Neither of the rear doors contains these two additional fasteners.

e) Using both hands, lift the upper inner door panel until it releases from the metal ridge along the window line. It doesn’t take much effort to remove the upper panel as it slides off vertically. Store it on the seats for safekeeping.

4) Remove the Lower Inner Door Panels as follows:

a) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw located at the upper edge of the lower panel.

b) Using a ½”small wooden dowel or equivalent drift, place it under the lower edge of the door handle screw access cover. Lightly tap each end of the access cover using the dowel and mallet in an upward direction to release the access cover. These covers can be tight if they have never been removed in the past, but they will release.

c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw located in the middle of the door handle.

d) Using a small awl or equivalent, remove the bottom door light lens by releasing it from its locator at the rear and sliding it outwards from the door.

e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the lower panel securing sheet metal screw located in the middle of the bottom door light assembly. All sheet metal screw fasteners for the lower panel are now removed.

f) Using both hands (and the large flat screwdriver, if needed), carefully pull off the lower inner door panel by release the series of fir-tree type press-fit connectors along the sides and lower perimeter. Once the panel is removed, it can be laid horizontally on the seat as there is sufficient length of wire bundle to allow this movement. It is not necessary to disconnect the wiring harness, but if desired, the connectors can be released so that the panel can be moved to another more worker friendly location.

5) Remove Door Mounted Speaker as follows:

a) Disconnect the speaker positive and negative conductors by releasing the electrical connector.

b) Using the 9mm Nutdriver, remove the speed clip nut from each of the four (4) speaker fastener studs. Press the nutdriver down firmly to engage the speed nut … do NOT cut away any foam material as it is not necessary.

c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the left (driver side) or right (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately above the speaker. It is located just below the upper sheet metal screw securing tab on the lower panel … the screw was previously removed in Step 4a.

e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the lower right (driver side) or lower left (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

f) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the lower far right (driver side) or lower far left (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

g) Steps 5c, d, e and f will release the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel from the lower door inner panel. Removal of the sheet metal screws will allow the speaker panel to be pulled away from the lower panel by 3” to 4” to facilitate access for speaker removal.

h) With the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel eased back for working clearance, grasp the speaker with one hand while pressing the four (4) speaker studs downward through the foam supporting material. After the studs are clear from the foam material, the speaker can be removed from the panel.

6) Install New Door Mounted Speaker as follows:

Typically, base XJ40 models use 3.5” door speakers while the VDPs will use 4” door speakers. Though I believe it is possible to mount either type in either model.

a) Using the wiring supplied with the new speakers and insulated solderless butt splices, transfer the old speaker wiring electrical connector to the new speaker. Another alternate method is to simply solder the old speaker wires with connector to the new speaker terminals. This is a superior method for electrical continuity and strength of joint … although it does require some soldering skills.

b) Install the new 3.5” speaker by easing back the speaker panel and sliding in the new speaker. Normally, the 3.5” models will mount with only two fasteners.

c) Using two of the small machine screws with flat washers, place these fasteners through the speaker mounting lugs and press them up through the existing holes in the foam supporting material. Secure the screws with flat washers and matching nuts from the back side of the inner door panel. The use of thread locking compound (Loctite) is a nice touch to prevent loosening due to vibration.

d) Re-install the sheet metal screws removed in Steps 5c, d, e and f. This will re-mount the speaker panel. Don’t forget to re-connect the speaker wire connector at the door panel.

7) Re-installation of the inner door lower and upper panels is literally a reverse of the removal procedure. No hidden tricks.

8) Perform Steps 3 through 6 for the other doors and the job is complete.

9) Remove Rear Footwell Mounted Speaker as follows:

This sequence is good for both 4” and 5.25” footwell mounted woofers.

a) Using a small flat screwdriver as a lever, carefully ease off the grill.

b) Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four (4) sheet metal mounting screws.

c) Ease out the old speaker and release the electrical connector for the speaker wires.

d) Transfer the old speaker wires and electrical connector to the new speaker using solderless butt splices or by soldering the old leads to the new speaker terminals.

e) Re-connect the speaker wires to the harness by joining the electrical connector.

f) Mount the new speaker and re-attach the necessary sheet metal screws.

g) Press the speaker grill into place.

h) Repeat Steps 9a though 9g for the other footwell speaker.

6.7 - Lights On Warning Buzzer ( )

A simple 10 min. fix for anyone who has left their lights on and drained the battery.

Go to any electronics shop and pick up a 12 volt relay and buzzer. Wire the buzzer through the normally closed (NC) contacts on the relay, and wire one end of the relay coil to the negative side of the buzzer and a common ground. You need access to a circuit that is hot when the lights are on to wire the buzzer to, and an 'accessory' circuit that is hot when the ignition is on e.g. next to the lighter. The lighter has both an accessory circuit and an instrument light.

Pull it out of the dash and wire the (+) side of the buzzer to the light wire, that way the buzzer comes on when the lights are on. Wire the common ground to the ground on the lighter shell. Wire the other end of the relay coil to the hot lead for the lighter, so when the ignition switch is on the relay will be energized and the contacts will open, breaking the connection on the buzzer.

There is plenty of room to jam the stuff down into the dash before you replace the lighter. Epoxy glue can be used to glue the relay to the side of the buzzer and to cover the relay leads and solder joints

6.8 - Factory Alarms ( )

Jaguar installs a factory alarm system that tees into the harnesses instead of just being spliced on. This is a very good but expensive setup. It is made by Derringer and though the harness ''T’s'' aren't included it is a very good system. Beware of cheap systems. Excessive draw will make short work of your battery! Look for a milliamp draw rating of no more than 60-70. Have them prove it! The parasitic draw tends to sulfate the battery quite a bit quicker than normal. Also make sure that they don't add an extra door lock solenoid to actuate the door locks. Some of these idiot installers actually charge you this added solenoid that isn't required. If they actually had a little electrical knowledge they could figure out how to wire the master solenoid in instead. .

6.8.1 - Reprogramming Factory K19 Alarm ( )

The following are the instructions included with the alarm transmitters for 1990-? cars.

19,000 Code Transmitter Coding Instructions

THIS TRANSMITTER IS PRE-CODED. With the 19,000 code system, the Alarm ECU is programmed rather than the transmitter as with the 1988-89 system.


Therefore, when programming the Alarm ECU with this transmitter ALL TRANSMITTERS FOR THIS CAR MUST BE AVAILABLE so that all 3 (or 4) can be entered into ECU memory AT THE SAME TIME.

If the owner has not brought in the two original transmitters supplied with the alarm, we recommend postponing programming until all 3 are available at the same time.

1. Ensure the original transmitters are available in addition to this unit.
2. Take note of pre-selected radio stations on AM and FM bands.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the car battery.
4. Unplug the alarm system backup battery.
5. Reconnect both backup battery and car battery.
6. Alarm will chirp once per second and side lights will flash.
7. Press each of the 3 (or 4) remotes once until a total of 5 transmissions are made. Each press of a remote results in the speaker sounding once. Alarm ECU will remember a total of 5 codes, in any combination of 2 - 5 transmitters. If tone is not heard, replace the 12v transmitter battery. If good, replace transmitter with a new warranty unit.
8. When the Alarm ECU has received 5 codes from all 3 (or 4) transmitters, it will function after a door has been opened or closed.
9. Open and close a door.
10. Using each remote in turn, arm and disarm the system to ensure all transmitters are programmed in properly.
11. Re-program AM/FM radio stations.
12. Ensure the remotes are attached to car keys and labeled to avoid mix up


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