Rust
The following is a description of where to keep an eye out for
rust on an XJ-S, courtesy of John Butler and others:
- Around the radius arm
mountings -- structural
- Lower (i.e. closing) edge of boot (trunk)
lid on the inside.
- Around taillights; just below
them down the seam there and just ahead of them on the rear wing.
- The joint between the rocker panel and the rear fender.
- Top dead center of rear wheel arches.
- Around rear bumper sidearm mounts (and along the horizontal
seam behind them; Check inside the boot).
- If your back window rubbers are softening check for:
- accumulation of water in the deep wells on either side of
the boot (trunk).
- water trickling down inside, down the back of the rear seat
back and accumulating in the spongy sounddeadening underneath.
- On the front wing, just ahead of the front door hinge and just
above the rocker panel.
Radius Arm Mountings
Now, about those radius arm mountings. The way most owners
find out they have a rust problem here is that the car starts
wandering aimlessly at speed! The front mounting for the trailing arm
-- adjacent to the rear jacking points -- rips out of the bodywork
along with a large section of sheet metal, allowing the rear wheel on
that side to pretty much go where it wants. How does YOURS look?
Trunk Lid
Julian Mullaney sends this tip:
Beginnings of rust under the lowermost lip of the trunk (boot)
lid. There are not enough drain holes here where the two sheets of
steel are spot welded. I will drill a couple more drain holes.
Taillight Area
Julian Mullaney points out that water may collect behind the
taillight fixtures, since there is no drain from this area. If it
appears to be a concern, perhaps the best solution is to merely coat
the metal with something to prevent rust, since it doesn't show.
The gaskets around lenses on cars generally follow one of two
schools of design: they either attempt to totally seal thereby not
allowing water in, or they include a notch at the bottom to allow
water to drain out. This author's observations and experience
indicate that the second idea is more often successful. Jaguar, of
course, uses the first. To drain the water from the area behind the
taillights, the gasket between the fixture and the body can be cut
prior to installation to form a drain channel. If done at the bottom
corner near the boot lid, it will scarcely be noticeable.
Rust Avoidance
Car enthusiasts generally recommend a product called Waxoyl for
treating the areas of bodywork prone to rust. According to Frans
Hoekemeijer,
It can be painted or sprayed. It can be thinned with "white
spirit" which evaporates rather quickly. Only a very thin layer is
sufficient to protect metals against corrosion as the molecules are
polarized and cling to the surface through electrostatic action, in
the same way water molecules do unfortunately. It sets to a waxy
substance. If used on the outside of the underbody of the car it has
to be renewed every so often.
In the UK, Waxoyl sells a "pump kit" which screws onto to can of
Waxoyl and you manually pump it and it becomes a spray gun. It comes
with a thin lance so you can poke it into various holes and get good
coverage. Pete Hamel says:
It's quite thick at normal temperatures so you can either thin
it with white spirit or immerse the can in a bucket of hot water to
make it more sprayable.
The beauty of it is that you do not have to completely clean
all dirt off the surfaces you apply it to as it creeps into small
crevices and through dirt. It's good for hard to reach areas. You can
also apply it over surface corrosion (remove any flaking rust). It
does leave a slightly waxy/sticky surface though so you don't want to
use it anywhere that appearance matters.
There are some people advertising in Jaguar World who come to your
house and treat the car for you.
Another product favored for protection is called P.O.R. 15.
According to Vince Chrzanowski,
A customer once painted the exterior of a car radio with POR
(don't ask me why). When we tried to remove the stuff, we found it
was nearly like porcelain in hardness and durability. We had to
change to a more aggressive abrasive in the bead blast cabinet. I
hope never to see POR on a radio again, but wouldn't mind it on the
frame of my Mark IX.
Paint
Jeffrey Gram reports:
Here in Europe many cars imported from the US are eventually
repainted, and even many professionals are not aware of a pitfall in
this area. According to a local "spritzer" the paint used on U.S.
cars are of a different and higher elasticity than Europe paint to be
able to cope with extreme temperature variations causing expansion
and contraction of the body sheet metal. If a U.S. paintwork is
spraypainted with EU paint, cracks will appear since the EU paint
cannot cope with the expansion and contraction of the U.S.
paintlayer. The solution is to either repaint from bare metal, or to
spraypaint the U.S. paint with a couple of layers of "bridging paint"
before the new paint layer.
Water Leaks
A/C System
Bob Tilley investigated the cause of water leaking from his air
conditioning system during rainy weather. It turned out that the
plastic cover over the windscreen wiper motor had deteriorated and
started breaking apart -- a common problem mentioned under the
wiper motor discussion
in the electrical section. In Tilley's case, the various parts of the
cover found their way into the drain pipes that feed from the wiper
area through the engine compartment and out through the wheel wells.
The drains end with a rubber elbow, and the plastic parts got lodged
in it and plugged it, causing the wiper compartment to fill with
rainwater and start draining into the air conditioner. Tilley
recommends that the drains be fully disassembled to ensure that all
plastic scraps (as well as leaves and other debris) have been
cleared.
Sunroof
The question of whether the XJ-S ever actually was fitted with a
sunroof from the factory always seems to generate more argument than
definitive answers. It is entirely possible that Jaguar never made a
sunroof for this car, and all the sunroofs on new cars were installed
by dealers to boost sales. If this is the case, each one may be
different.
At least some of the sunroofs installed, as well as the ones
fitted to the XJ6 at the factory, use drains on the front corners to
route water down the Apillars and out the bottom of the car. These
drains are thin and easily plugged with debris. If a wire is used
occasionally to keep them clear, the tendency of the sunroof to leak
water to the interior is greatly reduced.
There also may be some problem with the connection between the
sunroof and the drain tube. It may be helpful to inspect the
connection and, if necessary, apply some sealant.
Floor
Hunt Dabney reports:
At some time in its past, someone lifted my car improperly.
This caused the seams at the front of the floor, both sides, to
become separated just enough for water to wick in during heavy rains.
No apparent structural damage, but lotsowetcarpet. I sealed this from
below with silicone seal, and while at it popped out the drain plugs
from each floor section, cleaned them and reinstalled them, also with
silicone.
Doors
Ian Finlay suggests applying talcum powder to the seals, then
closing the door and applying a hose. The talcum should make the
location of the leak obvious.
Adhesives
According to Charles Daly,
A call to 3M produced the following info: if it's neoprene, as
in a fitting, washer, etc., then 3M8001 (Neoprene) is best. If it's
weatherstripping type application and the rubber is EPDM (Ethylene
Propylene Dieme Monomer) -- which is what most auto weatherstrip is
-- then use 3M80119 (which is called weatherstrip adhesive).
Hood Gas Struts
If you're tired of your XJ-S hood falling on your head, but don't
want to pay the $$ for new Jaguar struts, Herbert Sodher provides a
suggestion. There is a device made by Pylon called Lift Lock, and it
is sold at auto parts stores as well as Wal-Mart and Kmart for about
US$8. It is a device which is clamped onto the plunger of the strut,
and has an arm that slides along the outside of the strut housing as
the hood is opened. When fully open, the arm clears the end of the
strut housing, falls against the plunger, and jams against the end of
the strut housing to hold the hood up. To close the hood, the arm
must be manually lifted to clear the end of the strut housing. Since
the device is an unobtrusive black, it is suggested that the arm be
painted a bright color to make it more noticeable. Sodher judges
that, in the event a hamhanded mechanic does a pull-up trying to
close your hood, the US$8 device would break before the US$1200 hood
suffered any damage.
If you want to replace your struts, you can use a
reasonably-priced aftermarket strut intended for another type car
that will work on the XJ-S. Aftermarket struts such as Motormite's
"MIGHTY LIFT!" (lifetime warranty!) are available in discount auto
stores for about US$20 each. Of course, you can have a discussion
with your local junkyard as well. For the late 1976-on XJ-S, the gas
struts for a Chrysler LeBaron Hatchback (MIGHTY LIFT! no. 95018) are
close to the original length and can be made to work with a few 3/8"
washers. However, you don't want struts close to the original length;
see the notes on getting the bonnet to open farther in the section on
Body Modifications.
Note that aftermarket struts are a good deal more powerful than
stock struts. This is OK for most cars; customers are happy when the
hatchback on their LeBaron opens more forcefully than it ever has.
However, it may cause minor problems on the XJ-S. While you no longer
will have problems with the hood closing on your head, you may have
trouble closing the hood; you probably will have to hold the hood
down against the latches while operating the lever under the dash,
and in the worst case you may require an assistant on the other side
of the car to get the hood closed.
You should always replace both struts together; one strut stronger
than the other distorts the hood, and it bangs the fender on one side
when closing.
Note that the pre-late 1976 XJ-S used a different strut.
Michael Neal says that Jaguar is now making struts with a built-in
locking device to hold the bonnet open even if the gas pressure is
gone. Your only remaining problem will be getting your fingernails
under the edge of the bonnet to lift it up.
Protecting The Hood Struts From Heat
Michael Neal claims that heat in the engine compartment will toast
most aftermarket struts, and that only the Jaguar originals will do.
Of course, the aftermarket struts have a lifetime warranty and the
Jaguar struts don't. And the Jaguar struts seem to fail as quickly as
any, while several owners have reported long-term success with the
aftermarket struts. However, heat probably is a serious concern here,
and it's easy to provide any strut with a measure of protection by
merely wrapping it with some aluminum foil. In this case, it is very
convenient, since the width of aluminum foil matches the length of
the strut nicely; just tear off about six inches from the roll, and
wrap it around the strut, crimping it a little near the bolted end to
keep it in place.
Getting The Hood Outta
Your Way
On most cars, if the hood is in your way when working, the option
is to remove it. With the XJ-S, however, there are several options in
between. Michael Neal found that if the gas struts are disconnected,
the hood can be opened to a nearly vertical position, greatly
improving conditions for the mechanic. The plastic grille contacts
the front bumper, but that doesn't appear to hurt anything; the
grille simply flexes.
Neal commonly disconnects the struts when working on customers'
cars, holding the hood in a wide-open position by removing a rubber
plug forward of the strut mount and propping the bottom end of the
strut, with the bolt, in this large opening.
Jim Isbell points out that another option is to remove the grille
first. Then, with the struts disconnected, the hood can be opened to
vertical, and the front edge rests on a rubber portion of the front
bumper. Putting a cloth in between may be wise, and providing a prop
so the wind doesn't blow it down on your head would be nice.
When using any of the above methods, keep an eye on the plastic
filler panel just under the grille. It has openings for the hood
hinges, but the openings may not be large enough for the wider
opening and the plastic may crack. It may be helpful to remove this
piece, or to enlarge the openings in it.
Also, see the section on installing longer struts in the section
on Body Modifications.
Hood Ornament
The flat disk emblem on the hood with the puddy-tat face
apparently may be either blackened silver or blackened bronze in
color, but it is supposed to be blackened. The one on my 1983 is
metal so polishing may be possible, but Stefan Schulz reports that
his is plastic and therefore should not be polished lest the
plating be removed to expose the bare plastic.
Leaping Cat
Most Jaguar owners feel that the "leaping cat" looks really bad on
the XJ-S. They are made to be mounted on a nearly level surface, so
on the XJ-S they appear to be leaping downhill. If you just gotta
have one, note that it would be wise to remove the disk emblem and
install the leaping cat in its place, keeping any additional drilling
located so that reinstallation of the disk would cover it up. Also
note that the leaping cat is available in a couple of sizes, and the
smaller ones will be less obnoxious in this application.
Safety Hazards
Finally, note that hood ornaments are regulated as safety hazards
in some areas. In order to minimize harm to pedestrians you run over,
they may be required to be mounted on springs or some such. This not
only makes installation more complex, but it also makes it easier for
a thief to steal the ornament.
Front Spoiler Repairs
Fido may have only cost his owners $10 at the local pound, but he
becomes quite costly when you run him over with the Jag. The front
spoiler, when removed by force, often takes the bottom panel and the
front section of the two front wheel wells with it. The spoiler was
expensive enough; the package of four parts starts getting into some
real money.
You will probably need to get the original spoiler from Jaguar to
make the car look right. However, the other three pieces really don't
show, so you can make substitutes. A tough plastic is recommended, as
any sheet metal or fiberglass would get banged up too quickly in this
application. 3/16" black ABS sheet plastic seems to be ideal, making
these parts somewhat heavier than the originals.
For those who can't find such plastic, it can be ordered from:
Freddie's Plastics, Inc.
P.O. Box 1319
Plant City, FL 33564-1319
Phone: 813) 754-5567
Fax: (813) 754-0943
They sell it only in 4' x 8' sheets, enough to do several Jags.
They may cut it into quarters for ease of shipping; this requires
that the bottom panel be made as two pieces, which may be preferable
anyway. Some aluminum angle (used to connect the bottom panel with
the vertical wheel well panels), some screws, some clip nuts and a
couple hours fabricating are all that is needed to make a
satisfactory installation. One such installation has already survived
a 'possum at 100+ mph.
Door Hinge Springs
The springs in the upper door hinges that hold the door open tend
to develop rust problems, which in turn causes cracks to form at the
stress points; they break and fall out with a clank, and then the
door is always closing on you when you're trying to get in and out of
the car. If your car has not yet developed such problems, you should
make an attempt to prevent rusting on the two lower corners of these
springs. Paint them, coat them, grease them, something.
If your springs have already failed, you can just buy a
replacement hinge, but the spring may just break again. To make a
replacement spring, buy some 1/4" music wire from a hobby shop.
Normal 1/4" steel rod won't do -- music wire is extremely high
strength, necessary for a spring. Suitable 1/4" spring material may
also be available from a junkyard as the straight springs used to
hold the trunk lid open on many cars. Bend and cut the wire to the
same shape as the original spring, except replace the bottom two
90° bends with one continuous U-shape. This will reduce the
stress concentrations caused by the 90° corners. Be careful to
get the distance between the vertical portions of the spring right; a
slight difference has a pronounced effect on how firmly the door
stays open. Please be careful bending 1/4" music wire or spring; it
is extremely strong, and care must be taken when bending it to keep
it from springing loose and injuring you.
The door must be removed from the car to install the new spring.
Don't try to do this alone unless you don't care about your bodywork.
It is best to have at least two helpers to hold the door while you
remove the nuts and washers from inside the footwell. Before
installing the new spring, it should be protected from rust -- its
biggest threat.
Door Handles
John Butler sends this tip: If you need to replace a door handle
(apparently not that rare; they tend to break) and try to buy a used
one, be sure to get one with a key. If not, then there
are two designs of lock. On one you can spring a little shim in the
barrel; the barrel withdraws and a key can be cut. In the other you
can spring the shim but the barrel won't withdraw unless it is
turned, meaning you must have the key already.
Alternatively, you can buy two locks, demanding a discount because
there are no keys. On one, save the barrel by destroying the handle;
on the other, save the handle by destroying the barrel. Have a key
cut and combine parts to make one door handle assembly.
Window Glass
Reportedly, some XJ-S windows have the metal "runner" riveted to
the glass through two small holes about 1/4 inch from the bottom; in
this setup, pulling on the window is a very bad idea -- it will break
easily, since the rivet holes form a starting place for cracks. Later
ones are glued, making the glass itself much less likely to fracture.
If you have to replace a window, make sure the correct one is
ordered -- with or without rivet holes.
Taillight Reflectors
Many people fail to realize the importance of the reflectors to
the appearance of taillights, turn signals, etc. Jaguar XJ-S
reflectors are mostly chrome-plated plastic, which is fairly durable;
but the chrome sometimes deteriorates, and the neutral plastic color
is only a fair reflector. Also, the metal panel that separates the
taillights from the brake lights can get pretty dull.
To make your taillights look good, you should restore the
effectiveness of the reflectors. You can cover them with aluminum
foil or aluminum tape. The best method, however, is to mask the bulb
sockets and paint the reflectors with flat white spray paint. Flat
white gives a more diffuse appearance to the light, which is prettier
than the bright center appearance of the original. If you want to
make the light even more diffuse, you can paint a white spot on the
bulb to prevent a direct view of the filament.
Chrome-Plated Plastic
If you ever find yourself needing to remove chrome plating from
plastic, John Goodman suggests:
You can probably remove the chrome by removing the paint
underneath, with oven cleaner, or any of those concentrated cleaners
containing sodium hydroxide. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves.
Liberally spray the part with the goop, seal it in a plastic bag, and
wait.
I haven't tried oven cleaner to remove chrome from plastic, but
I have used it to remove paint from plastic. Works like a charm,
doesn't harm the plastic. Model railroaders use it on their delicate
miniatures.
On to the Interior
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